Ashimori Jinya (Okayama Prefecture) Complete Guide: A Thorough Explanation of the History and Highlights of the Edo Period Jinya Town
Located in Ashimori, Kita-ku, Okayama City, Okayama Prefecture, the Ashimori Jinya is a historical building that functioned as the administrative center of the 25,000-koku Ashimori Domain in Bitchu Province during the Edo period. It is still designated as a historical site by Okayama City as the site of the residence of the Kinoshita family, whose founder was Kinoshita Iesada, the elder brother of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Nene (Kita no Mandokoro, Kodai-in). This article provides a detailed explanation of the Ashimori Jinya’s historical background, current highlights, and surrounding tourist spots.
History of Ashimori Jinya
Establishment of the Ashimori Domain and the Kinoshita Family
The history of the Ashimori Domain dates back to Keicho 6 (1601), after the Battle of Sekigahara. It began when Kinoshita Iesada was granted a fief of 25,000 koku in Ashimori, Bitchu Province. Kinoshita Iesada was the elder brother of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Nene (Kita no Mandokoro), and a daimyo with deep ties to the Toyotomi family.
In 1615, following his military achievements in the Siege of Osaka, Iesada’s son, Kinoshita Toshifusa, was officially recognized as the lord of the Ashimori Domain, thus formally establishing the Ashimori Domain. The Kinoshita family originally bore the surname Sugihara, but adopted the Kinoshita surname due to their connection with Hideyoshi.
Construction Period of the Jinya (Fortified Residence)
There are various theories regarding the actual construction period of the Ashimori Jinya, but it is believed that a full-fledged Jinya was established during the time of the fifth lord, Kinoshita Toshisada (mid-Edo period). Prior to that, the first to fourth lords mainly resided in Kyoto and were not permanently stationed in Ashimori.
With the construction of the Jinya, Ashimori developed as the center of the domain’s administration, and samurai residences and merchant districts were developed. Throughout the Edo period, Ashimori functioned as an important political and economic center in Bitchu Province.
Changes After the Meiji Restoration
After the Meiji Restoration, the Ashimori Domain was abolished due to the abolition of the feudal domains and the establishment of prefectures, and the Jinya (fortified residence) ceased to function as a domain office. During the Meiji era, many of the Jinya buildings were demolished or sold off to private individuals.
In the Showa era, its historical value was re-recognized, and preservation efforts for the remaining structures began. Currently, the Jinya site is designated as a historical site by Okayama City, and the entire Ashimori district is designated as a townscape preservation area by Okayama Prefecture.
Structure and Characteristics of the Ashimori Jinya
Scale and Layout of the Jinya
The Ashimori Jinya was classified as a “Jinya” (fortified residence), not a castle. Due to the Edo Shogunate’s “One Castle Per Province” decree, daimyo (feudal lords) were prohibited from possessing castles other than their primary residence. Therefore, the Kinoshita family, a relatively small daimyo family, constructed a residence in the Jinya style.
The Jinya (fortified residence) grounds are estimated to have covered approximately 10,000 tsubo (about 3.3 hectares), and included an outer palace, inner palace, and gardens. While surrounded by moats and earthworks for defensive purposes, it lacked full-fledged castle structures such as a keep or stone walls.
Existing Remains
Although very little of the Jinya buildings themselves remain today, the following remains and related facilities can be seen:
Jinya Site: Currently a residential area and public facility, some traces of the original layout and stone walls remain. An information board is installed, allowing visitors to learn about the former Jinya layout.
Omizuen Garden: A daimyo garden built adjacent to the Jinya, designated as a scenic spot by Okayama Prefecture. A pond-centered strolling garden, it is a valuable cultural asset that preserves the style of Edo-period daimyo gardens.
Ginpu-kaku: A building located within Kinsuien Garden, it was used as a resting place for the feudal lord. The building still remains and can be viewed along with the garden.
Kinsuien Garden: A Daimyo Garden of the Ashimori Jinya
History and Characteristics of Kinsuien Garden
Kinsuien Garden is a daimyo garden with a pond and strolling paths, built during the Enpo era (1673-1681) by Kinoshita Toshimasa, the second lord of the Ashimori domain. The garden’s name is said to originate from a line in the Chinese poet Tao Yuanming’s “Returning Home” poem: “The garden becomes more interesting with each passing day; though there is a gate, it is always a barrier.”
The garden covers approximately 5,300 square meters, with a large central pond around which visitors can enjoy various landscapes. An island is situated in the pond, connected by a bridge. Designed to allow visitors to enjoy the beauty of nature throughout the four seasons, the garden attracts many tourists, especially during the cherry blossom season in spring, the fresh greenery of early summer, and the vibrant autumn foliage season.
Ginpu-kaku and Garden Facilities
Within Kinsuien Garden remains a building called Ginpu-kaku. This building was used as a resting place for the feudal lord when he visited the garden and is built facing the pond. From Ginpu-kaku, one can overlook the entire garden and it is designed as the most beautiful viewpoint.
The garden also contains other garden facilities such as the remains of a tea house, a stone bridge, stepping stones, and lanterns, exhibiting typical elements of an Edo period daimyo garden. It is still carefully maintained and protected as a designated scenic spot of Okayama Prefecture.
Visiting Information
Kinsuien Garden is open to the public, and anyone can visit by paying an entrance fee. Opening hours are from 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM, and it is closed on Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a public holiday). Entrance fees are 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for elementary and junior high school students.
You can freely stroll through the garden, and if you take your time, you can see the entire area in about 30 minutes to an hour. The garden shows different expressions with each season, so you’ll discover something new every time you visit.
Preservation of the Townscape of Ashimori District
Ashimori as a Jinya Town
The Ashimori district, which developed around the Ashimori Jinya (fortified residence), is known as an area that strongly retains the atmosphere of an Edo-period Jinya town. Samurai residences were arranged around the Jinya, and a merchant district was formed outside of that.
Of the approximately 300 houses in the current Ashimori district, about 100 retain the traditional Edo-period appearance with plaster walls, mushikomado (lattice windows), and lattice doors. These buildings are still used as residences today and are highly valued as a “living historical townscape.”
Efforts to Preserve the Townscape
In 1990, the Ashimori district was designated as an Okayama Prefecture-designated townscape preservation district, and full-scale townscape preservation activities began. Local residents, Okayama City, and Okayama Prefecture are working together to preserve and restore historical buildings and maintain the landscape.
In the preservation area, certain standards are set for new construction and renovation of buildings to ensure that the traditional appearance is not compromised. Furthermore, undergrounding of power lines and beautification of roads are also being promoted to create a landscape that does not detract from the atmosphere of the Edo period.
Major Historical Buildings
In addition to the Jinya (feudal lord’s residence) site and Kinsuien Garden, many other historical buildings remain in the Ashimori area:
Former Ashimori Merchant House, Fujita Chitoshi Residence: This merchant house operated a sake brewery from the late Edo period to the Meiji era and is now open to the public as a museum. It is a valuable facility where you can learn about the lifestyle of merchants at that time.
Ashimori Plaza: This facility also serves as a tourist information center, where you can obtain information about the history and culture of the Ashimori area. Bicycle rental services are also available, making it a convenient base for exploring the townscape.
Kinoshita Rigen’s Birthplace: This is the birthplace of Kinoshita Rigen, a poet of the Meiji era, and the home of a descendant of the Kinoshita family. The building is open to the public, and Rigen’s belongings and documents are on display.
Ashimori Jinya and Surrounding Attractions
Points to Note While Walking Around the Jinya Site
When visiting the Ashimori Jinya site, paying attention to the following points will allow you to experience history more deeply:
Land Layout of the Jinya Site: Although it is now a residential area, the layout of the roads and plots of land retain the land divisions of the Edo period. Walking while comparing it with old maps allows you to imagine the size and layout of the Jinya at that time.
Remains of Stone Walls: In some places, traces of the stone walls that surrounded the Jinya remain. Although small in scale, they provide clues to the technology of the time.
Information Boards and Explanations: Detailed information boards are installed at the Jinya site, where you can learn about the history and structure of the Jinya. QR codes scannable with smartphones are also installed, allowing access to more detailed information.
Annual Events in the Ashimori Area
The Ashimori area hosts various events throughout the year, leveraging its history and culture:
Ashimori Festival: Held every spring, this is the largest event in the region, featuring a samurai procession and performances of traditional arts. It’s a valuable opportunity to experience the atmosphere of an Edo-period jinya town.
Special Opening of Kinsuien Garden: The interior of buildings, normally inaccessible, is sometimes opened to the public, allowing visitors to learn more about the garden’s history.
Townscape Illumination: Historical buildings are illuminated during certain periods, offering a magical atmosphere different from the daytime.
Access and Tourist Information
How to Access Ashimori Jinya
Access by Car: Approximately 30 minutes northwest from central Okayama City via National Route 180. Approximately 15 minutes from Okayama-Soja IC on the Okayama Expressway. Free parking is available around Ashimori Plaza (approximately 50 spaces).
Public Transportation: From JR Okayama Station, take the Okayama Electric Railway bus bound for Ashimori (approximately 40 minutes), and get off at “Ashimori Plaza-mae” bus stop. Since bus service is limited, it is recommended to check the timetable in advance.
Recommended Sightseeing Time and Model Course
To visit the main sights of the Ashimori area, approximately 2-3 hours is recommended. The following model course is recommended:
- Gather information and rent a bicycle at Ashimori Plaza (15 minutes)
- Stroll around the Ashimori Jinya Ruins (30 minutes)
- Visit Kinsuien Garden (45 minutes)
- Stroll through the townscape and visit the former Ashimori merchant house, Fujita Chitoshi Residence (60 minutes)
- Visit Kinoshita Rigen’s birthplace (30 minutes)
If you want to enjoy a leisurely stroll, it is recommended to allocate about half a day.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
When visiting the Ashimori area, we recommend also visiting the nearby tourist attractions:
Kibitsu Shrine: An ancient shrine with a national treasure main hall, located about 20 minutes by car from Ashimori. It is also known as a place associated with the Momotaro legend.
Bitchu Takamatsu Castle Ruins: Famous for the siege by Hashiba Hideyoshi, this castle ruin is about 10 minutes by car from Ashimori. It has been developed into a historical park.
Okayama Korakuen Garden: One of Japan’s three most famous gardens, located in the heart of Okayama City. Together with Ashimori, you can enjoy the garden culture of Okayama Prefecture.
Cultural Value of Ashimori Jinya
Historical Significance
Ashimori Jinya is a valuable historical site for understanding the realities of local governance at the time, as it was the political and administrative center of a small domain during the Edo period. Its “jinya” (fortified residence) form, different from large castles, is an important document demonstrating the diversity of daimyo (feudal lords) during the Edo period.
In particular, the Kinoshita family, who had ties to the Toyotomi family, holds an important position in historical research as it provides clues to how they survived and managed their territory under the Tokugawa shogunate.
Advanced Example of Townscape Preservation
The townscape preservation in the Ashimori district is highly regarded as an advanced initiative within Okayama Prefecture. It has attracted attention nationwide as a model case of “living townscape preservation,” where residents maintain the historical landscape while continuing their daily lives.
The way they are developing sustainable preservation activities while balancing tourism development with the lives of residents serves as a valuable example for other historical townscape preservation districts.
Educational Use
The Ashimori Jinya ruins and townscape preservation district are also used as a place for local history education. Local elementary and junior high schools provide opportunities for students to visit the Ashimori district as part of their local history studies, learning by actually viewing historical buildings.
In addition, regular guided tours are conducted by Okayama City and local history enthusiast groups, allowing visitors to learn more deeply about the history of Ashimori.
Points to Note When Visiting Ashimori Jinya
Manners During Your Visit
Many buildings in the Ashimori area are still used as residences. When strolling through the town, please observe the following manners:
- Do not trespass on private property
- Avoid loud conversations and noise
- Always take your trash with you
- Be considerate of residents’ privacy when taking photographs
Seasonal Highlights
Spring (March-May): The cherry blossoms at Kinsuien Garden are beautiful, and the Ashimori Festival is held. The weather is mild, making it an ideal season for strolling.
Summer (June-August): The fresh greenery is beautiful, and you can enjoy the coolness of the garden pond. However, the sun is strong, so precautions against heatstroke are necessary.
Autumn (September-November): The autumn leaves are beautiful, and Kinsuien Garden is at its most vibrant. This is also a time when there are many tourists.
Winter (December-February): There are fewer tourists, allowing you to stroll through the town in peace. While cold weather precautions are necessary, the crisp winter scenery is also captivating.
Convenient Facilities and Services
Ashimori Plaza: Offers services such as a tourist information center, rest area, restrooms, and bicycle rentals (300 yen per day).
Restaurants: Several restaurants are located within the area, offering dishes made with local ingredients. However, opening days and hours may be limited, so prior confirmation is recommended.
Souvenirs: Shops selling local specialties and crafts offer unique Ashimori souvenirs.
Summary: The Charm of Ashimori Jinya
Ashimori Jinya, located in Ashimori, Kita-ku, Okayama City, Okayama Prefecture, is a valuable historical site that conveys the history of a small Edo-period domain. As the former residence of the Kinoshita family, whose founder was the brother of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s wife, Nene, and boasting the beautiful daimyo garden, Kinsuien, it continues to fascinate many history enthusiasts and tourists.
While very few buildings remain at the site of the former jinya (feudal lord’s residence), the Kinsuien Garden and the surrounding townscape retain a strong Edo-period atmosphere, allowing visitors to imagine what the jinya town was like at the time. As a townscape preservation district designated by Okayama Prefecture, it will undoubtedly continue to be carefully protected as a “living town of history” where the lives of residents and historical preservation are in harmony.
When visiting Okayama City, be sure to extend your trip to the Ashimori district and experience the history and culture of the Edo period. The beautiful gardens of Kinsuien, the charming townscape, and the warm hospitality of the local people are sure to create a memorable experience.
