Kitanosho Castle

Kitanosho Castle
所在地 〒910-0006 福井県福井市中央1丁目21−17
公式サイト https://www.city.fukui.lg.jp/kankou/kankou/sisetu/kitanosyou.html

Complete Guide to Kitano-Sho Castle: A Thorough Explanation from Shibata Katsuie’s Tragic Castle to its Transformation into Fukui Castle

What is Kitano-Sho Castle?: A Magnificent Flatland Castle that Played a Key Role in Echizen Province

Kitano-Sho Castle (also written as Kitano-Sho Castle) was a flatland castle located in what is now Ote, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture, dating from the Azuchi-Momoyama period to the Edo period. Built in 1575 by Shibata Katsuie, a senior retainer of Oda Nobunaga, it was recorded as one of Japan’s largest castles, boasting a nine-story keep, despite its short eight-year history.

The place name Kitano-Sho originates from Kitano-Sho, a part of the Asuwa Mikuriya, a territory of the Ise Grand Shrine in Asuwa District, Echizen Province. Located in the center of the Fukui Plain, it was a strategically important location surrounded by the Asuwa River and the Yoshino River (present-day Hino River). This castle served as a base for the Oda clan’s control of the northern provinces, later reborn as Fukui Castle, and during the Edo period, it became the center of the Fukui Domain as the residence of the Echizen Matsudaira family.

Currently, the castle ruins are maintained as “Kitanosho Castle Ruins/Shibata Park,” and the stone wall remains discovered during archaeological excavations are preserved and displayed. The site of the former main keep is now occupied by government buildings such as the Fukui Prefectural Government, the Fukui Prefectural Assembly, and the Fukui Prefectural Police Headquarters, conveying the vastness of the former castle.

History Before the Construction of Kitanosho Castle: From the Shiba Clan to the Asakura Clan

The Origin of Kitanosho Castle and the Seven Castles of Ashiwa

The predecessor of Kitanosho Castle is said to be Kitanosho Castle, built in 1338 (Kenmu 5th year/Engen 1st year) by Shiba Takatsune. It is listed as one of the seven castles of Ashiwa in the *Taiheiki*, and was an important base in the region from the Nanboku-cho period to the Sengoku period.

Rule by the Asakura Clan

During the Sengoku period, the Asakura clan, who ruled Echizen Province, stationed family members in the area and managed their territory. The Asakura clan had a system of multiple branch castles within Echizen, and it is presumed that Kitano-sho played a part in this.

In 1573, when the Asakura clan was destroyed by Oda Nobunaga’s attack, Nobunaga reorganized the governance of Echizen Province. Initially, Nobunaga appointed Katsurada Nagatoshi (Maeba Yoshitsugu), a former retainer of the Asakura clan, as deputy governor to govern Echizen. However, Nagatoshi was killed by the Ikkō-ikki forces in 1575.

Placement of the Three Lords of Kitano-sho

The person who quelled this rebellion was Shibata Katsuie, a senior retainer of Nobunaga. After suppressing the rebellion, Nobunaga stationed Kinoshita Sukehisa, Akechi Mitsuhide, and Tsuda Motoyoshi in Kitano-sho as the “Three Lords of Kitano-sho.” Ultimately, Shibata Katsuie was granted 490,000 koku in Echizen Province and began construction of Kitano-sho Castle.

Construction and Prosperity of Kitano-sho Castle by Shibata Katsuie

Construction Begins in 1575

In 1575, Shibata Katsuie began construction of his new castle in Kitano-sho, Echizen Province. Designed according to Katsuie’s own layout, the castle was planned on a grand scale as a base for the Oda clan’s control of the northern provinces and as a symbol of Katsuie’s authority.

A Magnificent Castle with a Nine-Story Keep

The most distinctive feature of Kitano-sho Castle is its nine-story keep. This was an extremely unusual height for the time, and is thought to have been comparable in scale to the keep of Azuchi Castle. However, there is ongoing debate among researchers as to whether this “nine layers” record refers to the number of layers on the exterior or the number of floors inside.

The Records of Luis Frois

In 1581 (Tensho 9), the Jesuit missionary Luis Frois visited Kitano-Sho Castle. At that time, the castle was undergoing expansion work, and Frois reported its scale in detail in a letter to his home country.

Of particular note is his description that “the roofs of the castle and other buildings were all covered with fine stone, and their color further enhanced the castle’s beauty.” This refers to roofs made of stone tiles (stone-made tiles), a feature extremely rare in Japanese castle architecture at the time. These stone tiles are presumed to have been processed from Shakudani stone, which was produced in Echizen Province.

Frois’s records are valuable testimony indicating that Kitano-Sho Castle was not merely a military facility, but a magnificent castle with outstanding aesthetic appeal.

Development of the Castle Town

Shibata Katsuie proceeded with the development of the castle town in parallel with the construction of the castle. Taking advantage of its topography, situated between the Asuwa River and the Yoshino River, he promoted the development of commerce utilizing water transport. As the center of Echizen Province, Kitano-sho rapidly developed.

From the Honnoji Incident to the Battle of Shizugatake: The Battle that Changed the Fate of Kitano-sho Castle

The Death of Oda Nobunaga and the Succession Struggle

On June 2, 1582 (Tensho 10), when Oda Nobunaga was killed by Akechi Mitsuhide in the Honnoji Incident, the Oda family was greatly shaken. Shibata Katsuie was engaged in battle against the Uesugi clan in Etchu Province at the time and could not immediately head to Kyoto.

Meanwhile, Hashiba Hideyoshi (later Toyotomi Hideyoshi), who had hastily returned from the Chugoku region, defeated Akechi Mitsuhide at the Battle of Yamazaki and began to seize real power within the Oda family. At the Kiyosu Conference, where Nobunaga’s successor was decided, the conflict between Katsuie and Hideyoshi came to the surface.

The Battle of Shizugatake

In 1583 (Tensho 11), the conflict over leadership within the Oda clan finally escalated into armed conflict. Shibata Katsuie and Hashiba Hideyoshi clashed at Shizugatake (present-day Nagahama City, Shiga Prefecture), near the border between Omi and Echizen provinces.

Initially, Katsuie’s side held the advantage, but Hideyoshi’s skillful tactics and the withdrawal of Katsuie’s ally, Maeda Toshiie, from the battle reversed the situation. Katsuie’s army suffered a devastating defeat, and Katsuie retreated to Kita-no-Sho Castle.

The Battle of Kitano-Sho Castle and the End of Shibata Katsuie

The Siege of Kitano-Sho Castle by Hideyoshi’s Army

After his defeat at the Battle of Shizugatake, Shibata Katsuie fled Yanagase, entered Echizen Province, passed through Itadori and Imano-Sho, and returned to Kitano-Sho Castle via Fuchu. Along the way, he visited Maeda Toshiie, expressing his gratitude for their long-standing friendship and telling Toshiie, “I have always been close to Hideyoshi, so don’t worry about me; reconcile with Hideyoshi.”

In April of Tensho 11 (1583), a large army led by Hashiba Hideyoshi besieged Kitano-Sho Castle. Faced with an overwhelming difference in troop numbers, Katsuie had no chance of victory.

The End of Life with Oichi-no-kata

Shibata Katsuie’s wife was Oichi-no-kata, the younger sister of Oda Nobunaga. Oichi-no-kata had previously been married to Asai Nagamasa of Omi Province, but remarried Katsuie after the fall of the Asai clan. With Lady Oichi, Katsuie had three daughters: Chacha (Yodo-dono), Jōkōin, and Go (the principal wife of Tokugawa Hidetada), who later became concubines of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

After sending the three daughters to Hideyoshi, Katsuie committed suicide with Lady Oichi in the keep of Kita-no-Shō Castle on April 24, 1583 (Tenshō 11). He was 62 years old (there are various theories).

At this time, Kita-no-Shō Castle burned down, and its magnificent nine-story keep was destroyed. In a short period of only eight years, Shibata Katsuie’s dream castle disappeared from the stage of history.

Kita-no-Shō Castle during the time of Niwa Nagahide and Hori Hidemasa

Reconstruction by Niwa Nagahide

After Shibata Katsuie’s death, Niwa Nagahide, a senior retainer of the Oda family, took up residence in Kita-no-Shō Castle. Nagahide began rebuilding the castle after it was destroyed by fire, but it is estimated that the scale of the reconstruction was not as large as that of Katsuie’s time.

Niwa Nagahide died in 1585, and his son, Niwa Nagashige, succeeded him. However, due to Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s relocation of domains, the Niwa clan was transferred from Echizen Province in 1590.

The Era of Hori Hidemasa and Hori Hideharu

Hori Hidemasa succeeded the Niwa clan as lord of Kitano-sho Castle, but Hidemasa soon died of illness, and his son, Hori Hideharu, succeeded him. The castle was maintained and improved during the Hori clan’s time, but after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Hori Hideharu was transferred to Echigo Province.

Major Renovations to Fukui Castle by Yuki Hideyasu

Entry of Yuki Hideyasu, Second Son of Tokugawa Ieyasu

After the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Yuki Hideyasu, the second son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, was granted 670,000 koku in Echizen Province and entered Kitano-sho Castle. Hideyasu, though a biological son of Tokugawa Ieyasu, had a complex background, having been adopted by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and later inheriting the Yuki family name.

Renaming from Kitano-sho to Fukui

After entering the castle, Yuki Hideyasu, believing the name “Kitano-sho” to evoke “defeat,” renamed it “Fukui” in 1601, and then “Fukui.” This is the origin of the current name of Fukui City.

Large-Scale Castle Renovations and the Birth of Fukui Castle

Under the guidance of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Hideyasu carried out large-scale renovation work on Kitano-sho Castle. The layout of the main keep and the second bailey is believed to have been designed by Tokugawa Ieyasu himself.

Excavation surveys conducted from 1993 onwards have revealed, through the intersecting layers of the soil, that Yuki Hideyasu boldly modified the remains of Kitano-sho Castle from the time of Shibata Katsuie when constructing Fukui Castle.

Hideyasu’s renovations included rebuilding the stone walls, expanding the moats, and constructing new turrets and gates. In particular, the vast moat known as Hyakken-bori was improved, significantly strengthening the castle’s defenses.

Yuki Hideyasu died in 1607 at the young age of 34, but Fukui Castle continued to develop as the residence of the Echizen Matsudaira family (renamed from the Yuki family).

Fukui Castle in the Edo Period: The Residence of the Echizen Matsudaira Family

Governance by the Matsudaira Family

After the death of Yuki Hideyasu, his descendants became the “Echizen Matsudaira family,” a powerful branch of the Tokugawa shogunate. Fukui Castle remained the residence of the Echizen Matsudaira family throughout the Edo period, functioning as the political, economic, and cultural center of the Fukui domain.

Maintenance and Renovation of the Castle

During the Edo period, the castle buildings were frequently damaged by disasters such as fires and earthquakes. Each time, repairs and reconstructions were carried out, and considerable expense and effort were invested in the maintenance and management of the castle.

In the Great Fire of Kanbun 9 (1669), the main palace and the keep were destroyed. The keep was never rebuilt, and only the keep’s foundation remains.

Meiji Restoration and the Dismantling of the Castle

After the Meiji Restoration, Fukui Castle was abandoned due to the abolition of the feudal domains and the establishment of prefectures. After 1871 (Meiji 4), many of the castle structures were demolished, and parts of the stone walls and moats were filled in. The site of the main keep was used as government land, and remains so to this day.

The True Nature of Kitano-Sho Castle Revealed by Archaeological Excavations

Archaeological Excavations in the Heisei Era

From 1993 (Heisei 5) to 2000 (Heisei 12), six archaeological excavations were conducted around Shibata Shrine. These excavations revealed, for the first time archaeologically, the true nature of Kitano-Sho Castle, which had previously only been known through documentary records.

Discovered Remains

The excavations uncovered stone walls, foundation stones, and moat remains of Kitano-Sho Castle from the time of Shibata Katsuie. Of particular note was the large-scale stone wall remains, demonstrating the high level of castle construction technology of the time.

Furthermore, the foundation stones of the Funayama Gate, the remains of the castle gate, and the stone walls of the Hyakkenbori moat, all constructed by Yuki Hideyasu during the construction of Fukui Castle, were discovered, providing valuable historical evidence of the transition from Kitano-sho Castle to Fukui Castle.

Characteristics of the Stone Walls

The discovered stone walls were built using a technique called “nozurazumi,” a typical stone wall construction method of the Azuchi-Momoyama period, where natural stones were stacked with minimal processing. The stones used were locally sourced Shakutani stone and river stones from the Asuwa River.

Excavated Artifacts

The excavation unearthed numerous artifacts, including roof tiles, ceramics, weapons, and daily necessities. The discovery of numerous fragments of stone roof tiles, in particular, is an important finding that corroborates the records of Luis Frois.

Highlights of Kitano-Sho Castle Ruins and Shibata Park

Park Development

In April 2004, utilizing the results of archaeological excavations, Kitano-Sho Castle Ruins and Shibata Park opened as a barrier-free castle ruins park. Excavated remains are preserved and displayed within the park, allowing visitors to learn about the history of Kitano-Sho Castle and Fukui Castle.

Statue of Shibata Katsuie

A bronze statue of Shibata Katsuie stands in front of the park. The statue of Katsuie, standing in armor, evokes a sense of dignity as a Sengoku period warlord. This statue is a symbol of Kitano-Sho Castle and a popular spot for tourists to take commemorative photos.

Shibata Shrine

Within the park is Shibata Shrine, which enshrines Shibata Katsuie and Oichi-no-kata as its deities. While the shrine’s main hall is a modern building, the grounds exude a historical atmosphere.

Restored and Exhibited Ruins

Within the park, the foundation stones of the Funayama Gate, the remains of the castle gate, and the stone walls of the Hyakkenbori moat, all discovered during archaeological excavations, have been restored and preserved. These ruins are valuable exhibits for understanding the structure of castles during the Edo period.

In particular, the sheer scale of the Hyakkenbori moat’s stone walls gives a real sense of how strong a defensive structure Fukui Castle was.

Kitanosho Castle Ruins Museum (Shibata Shrine Office)

The Shibata Shrine office also functions as a museum, displaying materials related to Kitanosho Castle and Shibata Katsuie. Replicas of artifacts unearthed during excavations, a restored model of the castle, and panels displaying ancient documents allow visitors to learn more about the history of Kitanosho Castle.

Admission is free, and you can easily drop by.

Remains of Fukui Castle: Main Enclosure Stone Walls and Moat

Existing Remains of Fukui Castle

A short distance from the Kitano-sho Castle ruins lies the site of the main enclosure of Fukui Castle. While the area is now occupied by government buildings such as the Fukui Prefectural Government Office, the Fukui Prefectural Assembly, and the Fukui Prefectural Police Headquarters, the stone walls and moat surrounding the main enclosure remain.

Main Enclosure Stone Walls

The stone walls of Fukui Castle’s main enclosure were constructed during renovations by Yuki Hideyasu, employing advanced stonework techniques such as cut-and-fitted and fitted stonework. The height of the stone walls varies depending on the location, but the highest points reach over 10 meters.

The stone walls possess a dignified style that seems to reflect the authority of the Tokugawa family, clearly demonstrating the characteristics of early modern castles.

Moat

The moat surrounding the main enclosure still holds water, preserving its former appearance. The moat is over 30 meters wide in its widest points, illustrating its importance in the castle’s defenses.

A stroll along the moat allows you to enjoy the scenery created by the stone walls and moat, making it a must-see spot for castle enthusiasts.

Remains of the Toneri Gate of Fukui Castle

In 2008, archaeological excavations uncovered the remains of the Toneri Gate of Fukui Castle. The gate’s foundation stones and stone steps were well-preserved, making it a valuable discovery for understanding the structure of Edo-period castle gates.

Layout and Structure of Kitano-Sho Castle and Fukui Castle

Layout of Kitano-Sho Castle

The exact layout of Kitano-Sho Castle, designed by Shibata Katsuie, is not fully understood due to the loss of detailed records after a fire. However, the following characteristics have been inferred from archaeological excavations and historical documents.

  • A terraced layout centered around the main keep
  • Water castle elements utilizing the Asuwa River and Yoshino River as outer moats
  • A magnificent castle complex centered around a 9-story keep
  • A unique architectural style using stone tiles

Fukui Castle’s Layout

Fukui Castle, built by Yuki Hideyasu, was designed with a more systematic layout under the guidance of Tokugawa Ieyasu.

  • A concentric layout consisting of the main keep, second bailey, and third bailey
  • Enhanced defenses with a vast 100-ken moat
  • A strict defensive system with multiple turret gates
  • A comprehensive urban plan including the castle town

The layouts of the main keep and second bailey are said to have been designed by Tokugawa Ieyasu himself, reflecting the Tokugawa style of castle construction seen in Edo Castle and Nagoya Castle.

Historical Significance of Kitano-sho Castle and Fukui Castle

Oda Regime’s Base for Controlling the Northern Provinces

Kitano-sho Castle was an important base for Oda Nobunaga to control Echizen Province as his direct territory. By appointing Shibata Katsuie as the castle lord, the Oda clan aimed to establish their power in the Hokuriku region.

A Turning Point from the Toyotomi Regime to the Tokugawa Regime

Shibata Katsuie’s defeat at the Battle of Kita-no-Sho Castle settled the succession dispute within the Oda clan and paved the way for Hashiba Hideyoshi (Toyotomi Hideyoshi)’s unification of Japan. In that sense, Kita-no-Sho Castle can be said to be a place of great turning point in Japanese history.

Afterward, following the Battle of Sekigahara and the establishment of the Tokugawa regime, the renovation of Fukui Castle by Yuki Hideyasu transformed this area into an important base for Tokugawa vassals.

A Site Showing the Development Process to Early Modern Castles

The transition from Kita-no-Sho Castle to Fukui Castle is a valuable example showing the development process from Sengoku period castles to Edo period early modern castles. The discovery of layered castle remains from different periods at the same site through archaeological excavations has significant implications for the study of Japanese castle history.

Access and Surrounding Sightseeing Information

Access to Kitano-sho Castle Ruins and Shibata Park

Location: 1-21-17 Chuo, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture

Access by Train:

  • Approximately 5 minutes on foot from JR Fukui Station
  • Proceed straight north from the station and follow the signs for Shibata Shrine

Access by Car:

  • Approximately 15 minutes from Fukui IC on the Hokuriku Expressway
  • Use nearby coin parking lots

Opening Hours: Always open (Museum: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, irregular closing days)

Admission Fee: Free

Access to Fukui Castle Ruins (Around the Prefectural Government Office)

Location: 3-17-1 Ote, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture (Fukui Prefectural Government Office)

Access by Train:

  • Approximately 10 minutes on foot from JR Fukui Station
  • Approximately 5 minutes on foot from Kitano-sho Castle Ruins

Points to Note During Visit:

  • The prefectural office is open only on weekdays (only the exterior can be viewed on weekends and holidays).
  • The main castle walls and moat are always open for viewing.

Nearby Tourist Attractions

Fukui City Local History Museum:
It features detailed exhibits on Kitano-sho Castle and Fukui Castle, including a reconstructed model of the castle and actual excavated artifacts. It’s an ideal facility for comprehensively learning about Fukui’s history.

Yokokan Garden:
This beautiful Japanese garden, designated as a national scenic spot, was the villa of the Matsudaira family, the lords of the Fukui domain. You can experience the elegance of an Edo-period daimyo garden.

Ichijodani Asakura Clan Ruins:
Located about 30 minutes by car from Fukui city center, this is the site of the Asakura clan’s castle town. It was the center of Echizen Province before Kitano-sho Castle and is designated as a national special historic site.

Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum:
One of the world’s three major dinosaur museums, located about 40 minutes by car from Fukui city center. It’s a popular spot, often visited in conjunction with castle tours.

Summary: Kitano-Sho Castle Tells the Story of History from the Sengoku Period to the Edo Period

Kitano-Sho Castle, a magnificent fortress built by Shibata Katsuie, left a significant mark on Japanese history despite its short eight-year existence. With its nine-story keep and beautiful stone-tiled roof, it was a symbol of the Oda regime’s rule over the northern provinces.

The defeat at the Battle of Shizugatake and the subsequent tragic end of Shibata Katsuie and Oichi-no-kata in the Battle of Kitano-Sho Castle remain in the hearts of many as events symbolizing the turbulent Sengoku period.

Later, after extensive renovations by Yuki Hideyasu, it was reborn as Fukui Castle and, throughout the Edo period, served as the residence of the Echizen Matsudaira family, becoming the center of regional development in Fukui.

Currently, the remains of each era are preserved at the Kitano-Sho Castle Ruins/Shibata Park and the Fukui Castle Ruins, conveying the romance of history to visitors. The remains revealed through archaeological excavations are invaluable historical documents illustrating the development of castle architecture from the Sengoku period to the Edo period, attracting the interest of not only researchers but also many castle enthusiasts.

Located within walking distance of JR Fukui Station, Kitano-sho Castle Ruins is easily accessible and will continue to be a popular tourist spot in Fukui, serving as a place to learn about Japanese history.

The stories of Kitano-sho Castle, filled with the dreams of Shibata Katsuie, and Fukui Castle, conceived by Tokugawa Ieyasu, are still quietly passed down in this place.

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