Complete Guide to the History and Highlights of Yatsushiro Castle | A Famous Castle in Higo Province, Also Known as Matsue Castle
What is Yatsushiro Castle?
Yatsushiro Castle (Yatsushiro-jo) is a flatland castle from the early Edo period located in Yatsushiro City, Kumamoto Prefecture. Built in Matsue Village at the mouth of the Kuma River, it is also known as Matsue Castle. Completed in 1622 (Genna 8), this castle is an extremely rare example nationwide, as its construction was permitted after the issuance of the “One Castle Per Province” decree (1615).
Currently, the Yatsushiro Castle ruins, along with the Furufumoto Castle ruins and Mugishima Castle ruins, were designated as a National Historic Site on March 18, 2014 (Heisei 26), as the “Yatsushiro Castle Ruins Group,” and are also selected as one of the Continued Top 100 Japanese Castles (No. 190). The stone walls of the main keep and the castle tower base still exist, making it a valuable cultural asset that conveys the appearance of an Edo-period castle.
The Prehistory and Construction of Yatsushiro Castle
From Furufumoto Castle to Mugishima Castle
Important castles existed in the Yatsushiro area even before the construction of Yatsushiro Castle. During the Nanboku-cho period, Furufumoto Castle was built and functioned as a central base for the Yatsushiro region. Later, during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Mugishima Castle was built by Kato Kiyomasa.
Mugishima Castle was a water castle built on a sandbar at the mouth of the Kuma River and played an important role as the administrative center of Yatsushiro. When Kato Kiyomasa governed Higo Province, while Kumamoto Castle was his base, he also valued Mugishima Castle as a defense against the Satsuma and Hitoyoshi domains to the south.
The Great Genna Earthquake and the Collapse of Mugishima Castle
In 1619 (Genna 5), a great earthquake struck the Yatsushiro region. This earthquake caused immense damage to Mugishima Castle, which collapsed to the point of losing its function as a fortress. The then-lord of the Kumamoto domain, Kato Tadahiro (second son of Kato Kiyomasa), faced the loss of his base in Yatsushiro.
In response to this emergency, Kato Tadahiro petitioned the shogunate for permission to build a new castle. Normally, the “One Castle Per Province” decree would have prohibited the construction of new castles, but the need for a replacement for Mugishima Castle and the military necessity of defending against the powerful Satsuma domain to the south were recognized, and permission for construction was granted as an exception.
Construction of Yatsushiro Castle (Matsue Castle)
Construction by Kato Masakata
In 1620 (Genna 6), Kato Tadahiro ordered his retainer, Kato Masakata, to begin construction of a new castle. The chosen site was Matsue Village, located in the lowlands north of the mouth of the Kuma River. While Mugishima Castle was built on a sandbar, this location was chosen for its more stable ground, but even then, construction was carried out under the challenging conditions of low-lying, marshy land.
Construction took place from 1610 to 1621, and was completed in 1622. The fact that it was completed in such a short period of just three years speaks to the high level of castle-building technology at the time and the importance of this base in Yatsushiro.
Castle Structure and Characteristics
Yatsushiro Castle is a flatland castle with a concentric layout, consisting of the main keep (Honmaru), second bailey (Ninmaru), third bailey (Sanmaru), and northern bailey (Kitamaru). The main keep (Honmaru) had a four-story, five-tiered main keep and a two-story, two-tiered smaller keep, and seven (some sources say eight) turrets were also located there. A large Honmaru Palace was situated in the center of the main keep, functioning as the lord’s residence.
A major characteristic is the use of limestone in the stone walls of the entire castle. This castle was constructed using stone quarried in the Yatsushiro area, and its whitish color sometimes led to it being called “White Heron Castle.” The total length of the stone walls extends approximately 2.5 km, preserving the traces of the large-scale civil engineering work of the time.
Excavations conducted since the Heisei era have confirmed the foundation stones of the main keep, drainage facilities, and stonework remains, revealing the actual state of castle architecture in the early Edo period.
An Unusual Existence After the “One Castle Per Province” Decree
Continuation of the “Two Castles Per Province” System
The “One Castle Per Province” decree, issued in Keicho 20 (Genna 1, 1615), was a policy that allowed each domain to have only one castle, and to abolish all other castles. However, in the Kumamoto domain, the “two castles per province” system, which had been permitted since the time of Mugishima Castle, continued even after the completion of Yatsushiro Castle.
This was an extremely unusual occurrence nationwide, and the reasons behind the official recognition of both Kumamoto Castle and Yatsushiro Castle were as follows:
- Preparation against the Satsuma Domain: The Satsuma Domain (Shimazu clan), a major southern domain, possessed particularly strong military power among the tozama (outside) domains.
- Monitoring the Hitoyoshi Domain: The neighboring Hitoyoshi Domain (Sagara clan) was also an tozama domain, and it was necessary to monitor its movements.
- Strategic Point in Southern Kyushu: Yatsushiro was located at the mouth of the Kuma River, making it a crucial point for both maritime and land transportation.
Recognizing this military and geopolitical importance, the shogunate granted an exception and permitted the continued existence of Yatsushiro Castle.
The Era of the Hosokawa Clan
Entry of Hosokawa Tadaoki
In 1632 (Kanei 9), Hosokawa Tadaoki (Hosokawa Sansai) succeeded the Kato clan as the lord of the Kumamoto Domain. Although the actual lord of the domain was his son, Hosokawa Tadatoshi, Tadaoki chose the northern citadel of Yatushiro Castle as his retirement residence and entered the castle.
Hosokawa Tadaoki was a renowned general from the Sengoku period to the early Edo period, and also a cultured man with a deep understanding of the tea ceremony. It is said that he spent his retirement in Yatsushiro enjoying the tea ceremony. Tadaoki died at Yatsushiro Castle in 1645.
The Matsui Clan’s Entry into Yatsushiro Castle and the Era of its Lords
In 1646, Matsui Okinaga, the chief retainer of the Hosokawa family, entered Yatsushiro Castle. The Matsui clan held a unique position, not merely as retainers, but also as direct vassals of the Shogun (hatamoto). This was a system called “castle lord retainer,” and the Matsui clan, while vassals of the Kumamoto domain, had a dual lord-vassal relationship, receiving direct stipends from the shoginate as well.
The Matsui clan’s domain was estimated at approximately 30,000 koku, a scale to comparable that of a daimyo of a small domain. From then until its demolition in 1870 (Meiji 3), the Matsui clan ruled Yatsushiro Castle for a remarkable 224 years.
The successive heads of the Matsui clan not only governed Yasushiro but also dedicated themselves to promoting culture. In particular, the artworks and documents passed down through the Matsui family are preserved today as the “Matsui Library,” serving as invaluable resources for understanding the history of Yasushiro.
Yatsushiro Castle After the Meiji Era
Demolition and Removal of Buildings
In 1870 (Meiji 3), Yatsushiro Castle was demolished according to the policies of the Meiji government. Following the abolition of the feudal domains and the establishment of prefectures after the Meiji Restoration, castles throughout Japan were being demolished one after another, and Yatsushiro Castle met the same fate.
After the castle’s demolition, the buildings within the castle grounds were successively demolished. All the main buildings, such as the keep, turrets, and palace, have been lost, and now only the stone walls and the keep’s base remain to tell the story of its former glory. Some buildings have been relocated and still exist in temples and shrines within the city.
Use of the Main Enclosure Site
After the castle was abandoned, the Matsui Shrine was founded in 1880 (Meiji 13) on the site of the main enclosure. This shrine, dedicated to the successive heads of the Matsui family, still stands in the center of the main enclosure. The shrine grounds preserve items related to the Matsui family, making it a place that tells the history of Yatsushiro.
The area around the main enclosure has also been developed into a park, and is a popular place for citizens to relax. In spring, cherry blossoms bloom, making it a well-known spot for cherry blossom viewing.
Existing Buildings and Remains
Stone Walls and Keep Base
The most impressive remains of Yatsushiro Castle are the stone walls surrounding the main enclosure. The whitish stone walls, constructed from limestone, remain impressively strong even 400 years after the castle’s construction, conveying its former appearance. The stonework employs a technique called “uchikomi-hagi,” making it a valuable resource for understanding early Edo period castle construction technology.
The main keep’s foundation and smaller keep foundation still exist within the main enclosure. The large keep foundation measures approximately 15 meters square and once supported a four-story, five-tiered keep. Climbing to the top of the keep foundation offers panoramic views of Yatsushiro city, the Kuma River, and even the Yatsushiro Sea, highlighting the castle’s strategic location controlling a crucial point for both land and water transportation.
Relocated Buildings
Some of the buildings from Yatsushiro Castle were relocated to various locations within the city after the castle’s abandonment and still exist today:
- Part of the Main Enclosure’s Great Study: Relocated to a temple in the city and still in use today.
- Castle Gate: Part of it was relocated and is now used as a gate for a private house.
These relocated buildings are valuable resources for understanding the architectural style of Yasushiro Castle.
Shohinken
Located on the outer perimeter of Yatsushiro Castle, Shohinken is a garden centered around a tea house built by Hosokawa Tadaoki. Later, it became a villa for the Matsui family and is now designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty. The pond-centered strolling garden displays beauty throughout the seasons and occupies an important position as a relic related to Yatsushiro Castle.
Designation of the Yatsushiro Castle Ruins as a National Historic Site
Designation of Three Castle Ruins Together
On March 18, 2014, the Yatsushiro Castle Ruins, along with the Furufukujo Castle Ruins and the Mugishima Castle Ruins, were designated as a National Historic Site as “Yatsushiro Castle Ruins Group: Furufukujo Castle Ruins, Mugishima Castle Ruins, Yatsushiro Castle Ruins“. This designation also includes the Hirayama Tile Kiln Ruins and the Matsui Family Cemetery.
This unified designation was groundbreaking in that it allows for a comprehensive understanding of Yatsushiro’s history across different eras. It indicates a policy to preserve and utilize the history of Yatsushiro’s castles, from Furufukujo Castle of the Nanboku-cho period to Mugishima Castle of the Sengoku period, and then to Yatsushiro Castle of the Edo period, as a single historical site group.
Results of Archaeological Excavations
Continuous archaeological excavations have been conducted at the Yatsushiro Castle Ruins since before and after the designation as a National Historic Site. Previous investigations have yielded the following results:
- Scale and Structure of the Main Palace: The layout and size of the palace have been clarified from the arrangement of the foundation stones.
- Stone Structure Remains: Stone structure remains such as drainage facilities and wells have been confirmed.
- Excavated Artifacts: Tiles, ceramics, and metal products have been excavated, revealing details about life and buildings within the castle.
These research findings are on display at the Yatsushiro City Museum of the Future Forest and other locations, and are used as resources to deepen understanding of Yatsushiro Castle.
Restoration and Maintenance Efforts
Stone Wall Restoration
Due to aging and earthquakes, some parts of the stone walls are at risk of collapse. Following the designation of the castle as a national historical site, Yatsushiro City has been systematically carrying out stone wall restoration projects. The restoration work incorporates traditional stonework techniques while also utilizing modern earthquake-resistant technologies.
Preservation of the Castle Town’s Layout
Yatsushiro Castle and its castle town still largely retain the town layout from when it was built in 1622. The surrounding temples and shrines, originally located at the time of construction, remain in the same positions, demonstrating how the original urban planning has been passed down to the modern city.
This historical town layout is also considered important in Yatsushiro City’s urban planning, striving to balance the preservation of the historical landscape with modern urban functions.
Highlights of Yatsushiro Castle
Main Enclosure Ruins and Stone Walls
The main attraction of a visit to Yatsushiro Castle is undoubtedly the main enclosure ruins. The main enclosure, where Matsui Shrine is located, is surrounded by high stone walls, conveying its former grandeur. The stone walls reach a maximum height of approximately 10 meters and are characterized by the whitish color unique to limestone.
The interior of the main enclosure has been developed into a park, allowing visitors to freely stroll around. Visitors can enjoy the scenery of each season: cherry blossoms in spring, fresh greenery in early summer, and autumn leaves in fall.
View from the Castle Tower Base
Climbing to the main castle tower base offers a panoramic view of Yatsushiro city. The Kuma River flows majestically below, and the Yatsushiro Sea (Shiranui Sea) stretches out in the distance. On a clear day, you can even see the Amakusa Islands. This view demonstrates the strategic importance of Yatushiro Castle, built at a key point for both land and water transportation.
Matsui Shrine
Located in the center of the main enclosure, Matsui Shrine is dedicated to the successive heads of the Matsui family. The shrine grounds are adorned with stone monuments and lanterns related to the Matsui family, creating a tranquil atmosphere. An annual festival is held there in the autumn, making it a beloved local event.
Strolling Through the Castle Town
A castle town, preserving the layout of the Edo period, spreads out around Yatsushiro Castle. The temple district still retains the temples that were in place at the time of the castle’s construction, allowing visitors to experience a historical atmosphere. Furthermore, buildings that retain the atmosphere of merchant houses and samurai residences are scattered throughout the area, making it was enjoyable to stroll through the castle town.
Yatsushiro City Museum of the Future Forest
To learn more about the history of Yatushiro Castle, a visit to the Yatushiro City Museum of the Future Forest is highly recommended. The museum has a permanent exhibition on Yatushiro Castle, where you can learn about its history through castle models, excavated artifacts, ancient documents, and illustrations.
The Matsui Bunko, which houses art objects and documents passed down through the Matsui family, is a must-see. A valuable collection, including national treasures and important cultural properties, is on display for a limited time.
Access
Public Transportation
- JR Kagoshima Main Line: Approximately 15 minutes on foot from Yatsushiro Station
- Bus: Take the Sanko Bus from in front of Yatushiro Station and get off at “Yatsushiro Castle Ruins” bus stop.
Yatushiro Station is approximately 30 minutes from Kumamoto Station by express train, and approximately 10 minutes from Shin-Yatsushiro Shinkansen Station by local train.
By Car
- Kyushu Expressway: Approximately 10 minutes from Yatsushiro Interchange
- Parking: Free parking is available around the Yatsushiro Castle Ruins (including parking for Matsui Shrine visitors).
It is approximately 40 minutes from Kumamoto City via National Route 3, and approximately 1 hour from the Hitoyoshi area.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Matsuhama-ken
Matsuhama-ken, located approximately 20 minutes on foot from Yatsushiro Castle, is a garden designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty. This is a pond-centered strolling garden built by Hosokawa Tadaoki, where you can enjoy the beauty of each season. The irises in June are particularly magnificent.
Furufumoto Castle Ruins and Mugishima Castle Ruins
The Furufumoto Castle Ruins and Mugishima Castle Ruins, which make up the Yatsushiro Castle Ruins group, are also places you should definitely visit if you have the time. The Furufumoto Castle Ruins retain the remains of a mountain castle, and although the Mugishima Castle Ruins are now part of the city, you can imagine their former glory through information boards and other displays.
Yatsushiro Shrine (Myoken-gu)
Located about 10 minutes by car from Yatsushiro Castle, Yatsushiro Shrine is an ancient shrine affectionately known as “Myoken-san.” The “Yatsushiro Myoken Festival,” held every November, is a magnificent festival registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, attracting many tourists.
Historical Significance of Yatsushiro Castle
Yatsushiro Castle holds the following important significance in the history of Japanese castles:
Construction After the “One Castle Per Province” Decree
As one of the few castles newly constructed after the issuance of the “One Castle Per Province” Decree, it is a valuable example for understanding the policies of the Edo Shognate and the realities of local governance. It demonstrates the shoginate’s flexible response when military necessity was recognized.
The Castle Deputy Chief Retainer System
The governance by the Matsui clan is important as an example of the unique system of castle deputy chief retainers. Their dual lord-vassal relationship—being both vassals of a daimyo family and direct retainers of the shogun—is an interesting case for understanding the complex social hierarchy of the Edo period.
Center of Regional Governance
Yatsushiro Castle was not merely a military facility; it functioned as the political, economic, and cultural center of the Yatsushiro region. It was a center that had a significant impact on the local community, including the development of the castle town, the promotion of industry, and the cultivation of culture.
Points to Note When Visiting Yatsushiro Castle
Estimated Visiting Time
A thorough visit to the Yatsushiro Castle ruins will take approximately 1-2 hours. If you only want to see the stone walls and the castle tower base and stroll around the main enclosure, 30 minutes to 1 hour is sufficient.
Recommended Seasons
- Spring (Late March to Early April): Cherry blossom season; the main keep ruins become a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing.
- Early Summer (May to June): Beautiful fresh greenery; mild weather, perfect for a stroll.
- Autumn (October to November): Autumn foliage season; the contrast between the stone walls and the autumn leaves is stunning.
Precautions When Visiting
- Climbing on the stone walls or moving stones is prohibited.
- The stairs to the keep base are steep; watch your step.
- In summer, there is little shade, so we recommend bringing a hat, parasol, and plenty of water.
Summary
Yatsushiro Castle is a historically valuable castle, permitted to be built as an exception after the “One Castle Per Province” decree. Approximately 400 years have passed since its construction in 1622, and the stone walls and keep base still convey its original appearance, while the Edo-period town layout is still preserved in the modern city. Built by Kato Masakata, serving as the retirement residence of Hosokawa Tadaoki, and ruled by the Matsui clan for 224 years, Yatsushiro Castle played a crucial role as a key strategic point in southern Higo Province. Currently, it is preserved and utilized as part of the national historic site “Yatsushiro Castle Ruins,” serving as a valuable cultural asset that conveys the region’s history and culture.
When visiting Kumamoto Prefecture, be sure to visit the Yatsushiro Castle ruins and enjoy the view of Yasushiro from the white limestone walls and the castle tower base. Furthermore, by learning more about the history of Yatsushiro Castle at the Yatsushiro City Museum and strolling through the castle town, you will be able to truly appreciate the role this castle played and the weight of its history that continues to this day.
