Morioka Castle: A Complete Guide to the History and Highlights of the Nanbu Clan’s Castle, Featuring One of Tohoku’s Most Beautiful Stone Walls
Morioka Castle is a flatland castle located in the heart of Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, and served as the residence of the Nanbu clan for generations. Currently, it is a popular tourist spot known as Morioka Castle Ruins Park (Iwate Park), and its beautiful stone walls, constructed of stacked white granite, are considered one of Tohoku’s three most famous castles. This article provides a comprehensive overview of Morioka Castle, from its construction history and structure to its highlights and its current appeal as a park.
Overview and Location of Morioka Castle
Morioka Castle is a multi-bailey flatland castle built on a granite hill at the confluence of the Kitakami River and the Nakatsu River. It skillfully utilizes the terrain, with an elevation of approximately 143 meters and a relative height of approximately 15 meters, to create a robust layout centered around the main bailey, second bailey, and third bailey.
Location and Geographical Characteristics
The castle is located in Uchimaru, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, in the present-day center of Morioka City. The former Kitakami River (Kitakami Old River) flowed through the vicinity of Saien in the city, curving as it went, and merged with the Nakatsu River just downstream of Shimobashi Bridge. Morioka Castle was built on the eroded terrace at this confluence.
By utilizing the Kitakami River flowing to the west and the Nakatsu River flowing to the southeast as natural moats, and further excavating an inner moat, a strong defensive system was constructed, protecting the castle from both land and water. This location was a strategic military point, and also offered excellent water transport, contributing to the development of the town castle.
Origin of the Alternate Name “Kozukata Castle”
This area was formerly called “Kozukata,” and Morioka Castle also has the alternative name “Kozukata Castle.” There are several theories regarding the origin of the place name Furaikata, but it is believed that the name was inherited because Morioka Castle was built on the site of Furaikata Castle (also known as Awaji-kan or Keizen-kan), which was built by the Fukushi clan, vassals of the Nanbu clan, with a new layout.
History of Morioka Castle Construction
Decision to Build by Nanbu Nobunao
The construction of Morioka Castle began with the Nanbu clan’s decision to relocate their residence from Sannohe. Nanbu Nobunao, as the first lord of the Morioka Domain, decided to move to Furaikata, a location more suitable as a political and economic center.
It is said that in 1597 (Keicho 2), Nanbu Nobunao began construction with his eldest son, Nanbu Toshinao (the second lord), as the chief magistrate. Some sources suggest 1598 (Keicho 3), but in any case, it is certain that construction began at the end of the 16th century.
Advice and Design by Asano Nagamasa
It is believed that the castle’s construction was influenced by the advice of Asano Nagamasa, one of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s Five Commissioners. Asano Nagamasa was also known as an expert in castle construction, and his advice significantly enhanced Morioka Castle’s status as a modern castle.
Asano Nagamasa’s influence is strongly reflected in the construction techniques of the stone walls and the design of the castle’s layout, resulting in a castle built entirely of stone walls, a rarity in the Tohoku region. Amidst the predominantly earthen rampart castles of Tohoku, Morioka Castle’s stone walls stand out.
Long Construction Period
The construction of Morioka Castle took an incredibly long time, approximately 90 years, from start to finish. Construction began in 1597 (Keicho 2) and continued until 1686 (Jokyo 3), with expansions ongoing throughout the process.
In 1633 (Kanei 10), the first lord of the domain, Nanbu Nobunao, entered Morioka Castle, and thereafter, successive generations of the Nanbu clan resided there. However, repairs to the stone walls and expansion work on the castle continued, and it was finally completed at the end of the 17th century.
This long period of construction demonstrates not only the financial constraints and technical difficulties but also the importance the Nanbu clan placed on Morioka Castle as the center of their domain.
Structure and Layout of Morioka Castle
Arrangement of the Main Bailey, Second Bailey, and Third Bailey
Morioka Castle has a linear layout, with the Main Bailey at the center, surrounded by the Second and Third Baileys. Furthermore, baileys such as the North Bailey and East Bailey were also constructed, creating a complex and robust defensive system.
The Main Bailey is the core of the castle and was built at the highest point. Although a main keep was not built in the Honmaru (main enclosure), a three-story turret called the Gosankai Yagura (three-story turret) served as a substitute.
The Ninomaru (second enclosure) was located north of the Honmaru and housed the lord’s residence and other buildings. It functioned as the center of government affairs, and many buildings stood there.
The Sannomaru (third enclosure) was located further outside and housed the residences of retainers and other facilities. An outer enclosure was built outside the Sannomaru, forming the boundary with the castle town.
Features and Beauty of the Stone Walls
The most distinctive feature of Morioka Castle is its stone walls, constructed from white granite from Morioka. While earthen ramparts were common in castles in the Tohoku region, Morioka Castle boasts the largest stone walls north of the Kanto region.
Granite, also known as “Mikageishi,” is a hard and durable stone. The stone walls of Morioka Castle were meticulously constructed from this white granite, and their beauty earned them the nickname “White Castle.”
The methods of stacking the stones varied depending on the era, ranging from the early, rough-hewn style (nozura-zumi) to the later, cut-stone joinery (kirikomi-hagi). This reflects the long history of the castle’s construction and is a valuable resource for learning about the development of stone walls.
Moats and Water Use
Morioka Castle utilized two rivers, the Kitakami River and the Nakatsu River, as natural outer moats. This protected the western and southeastern sides with natural water moats.
Furthermore, inner moats were excavated within the castle grounds, separating the main keep from the second bailey, and the second bailey from the third bailey. Water was drawn from the rivers into these moats, maintaining a constant water level to enhance their defensive capabilities.
Water use played a crucial role not only for defense but also for providing water for daily life and firefighting within the castle. Morioka Castle’s water management system was highly developed for a castle of the early modern period.
History of the Nanbu Clan and the Morioka Domain
Origins and Genealogy of the Nanbu Clan
The Nanbu clan was a samurai family originating from Nanbu-go in Kai Province (present-day Yamanashi Prefecture). They served Minamoto no Yoritomo during the Kamakura period and were granted land in northern Mutsu Province for their achievements in the Oshu War.
The Nanbu clan expanded their power primarily in the Nukanobu region, and during the Sengoku period, their base was Sannohe. Nanbu Nobunao, the 26th head of the Nanbu family, pledged allegiance to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and had his territory secured.
Establishment of the Morioka Domain (200,000 koku)
In the Battle of Sekigahara, Nanbu Toshinao sided with Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Eastern Army, and after the war, the Morioka Domain was officially recognized as a 200,000 koku domain. This meant that the Nanbu clan ruled Morioka as an outside daimyo throughout the Edo period.
The Morioka Domain controlled a vast territory stretching from northern Iwate Prefecture to eastern Aomori Prefecture, and the Nanbu clan reigned as its lords throughout the Edo period. Nanbu rule continued until the end of the Edo period, leading up to the Meiji Restoration.
Successive Lords and Morioka Castle
From the first lord, Nanbu Nobunao, to the last lord, Nanbu Toshiyuki, the Nanbu clan resided in Morioka Castle. Each lord strived to maintain and expand the castle, and also dedicated themselves to the development of the castle town.
In particular, during the reign of the third lord, Nanbu Shigenao, the castle town was significantly developed, and Morioka prospered as the political, economic, and cultural center of the Nanbu Domain. Although there was an internal turmoil known as the Kanbun Incident, the Nanbu clan’s rule remained unshaken.
Morioka Castle After the Meiji Restoration
Abolition of the Castle and Demolition of Buildings
After the Meiji Restoration, the Morioka Domain was abolished due to the abolition of the feudal domains and the establishment of prefectures, and Morioka Castle ceased to serve its purpose. In 1874 (Meiji 7), the buildings within the grounds castle were dismantled, leaving only the stone walls and moat.
The loss of many structures, including the three-story turret, was a significant loss from the perspective of cultural property preservation. However, because the stone walls were preserved, it is still possible to imagine its former appearance today.
The Birth of Iwate Park (Morioka Castle Ruins Park)
In 1906 (Meiji 39), the Morioka Castle ruins were developed as “Iwate Park.” This park was designed by Nagaoka Yasuhei, known as a pioneer of modern parks in Japan.
Nagaoka Yasuhei was a landscape architect who designed many parks in Hokkaido and the Tohoku region, including Maruyama Park in Sapporo and Hakodate Park. He transformed the Morioka Castle ruins into a modern park where citizens could relax, utilizing the topography and stone walls of the site.
In the Showa era, the nickname “Morioka Castle Ruins Park” also came into use, and today both names are familiar. ### Designated as a National Historic Site
In 1937, Morioka Castle Ruins were designated as a National Historic Site. This officially recognized its historical value, leading to efforts to preserve and maintain the site.
Currently, Morioka City continues its preservation and maintenance work, including the restoration of the stone walls and archaeological excavations. In 2006, it was selected as one of “Japan’s Top 100 Castles,” increasing its national recognition.
Highlights of Morioka Castle Ruins Park
Main Enclosure Ruins and Stone Walls
The most impressive sights at Morioka Castle Ruins Park today is undoubtedly the main enclosure ruins and the surrounding stone walls. The main enclosure is now a plaza, and from the site where the three-story turret once stood, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Morioka city.
The stone walls of the main enclosure reach heights of over 10 meters in some sections, allowing you to appreciate both the beauty and power of the white granite. The northern side of the stone wall, in particular, is well-preserved, allowing you to observe the construction techniques up close. ### Second Bailey Ruins and Eboshi Rock
At the Second Bailey ruins lies Eboshi Rock, one of the symbols of Morioka Castle. This is a natural giant rock that was left as it was when the castle was built. It was named after its resemblance to the shape of an eboshi (a type of traditional Japanese hat).
The area surrounding Eboshi Rock was once home to the lord’s residence. Currently, it is a plaza where various events are held throughout the seasons.
Third Bailey Ruins and Literary Monuments to Ishikawa Takuboku and Miyazawa Kenji
At the Third Bailey ruins stand literary monuments to Ishikawa Takuboku and Miyazawa Kenji, writers associated with Morioka.
The Ishikawa Takuboku Poetry Monument bears the famous castle tanka poem: “Lying on the grass of the grounds of Kofukata, my fifteen-year-old heart was drawn into the sky.” This poem describes a moment from Takuboku’s youth spent at the Morioka Castle ruins during his time at Morioka Middle School, and it is a popular spot for many literature fans.
The Miyazawa Kenji Poetry Monument bears an inscription of Kenji’s poetry, demonstrating his connection to Morioka. Kenji studied at Morioka Higher School of Agriculture and Forestry (now the Faculty of Agriculture, Iwate University) and spent his youth in Morioka.
These literary monuments demonstrate that Morioka Castle Ruins Park is not merely a historical site, but also a sacred place for literature.
Sculptures and Monuments
Besides the literary monuments, various sculptures and monuments are scattered throughout the park. There are bronze statues of figures associated with the Nanbu clan and monuments that tell the history of Morioka, allowing visitors to learn about history while strolling through the park.
The park’s appeal also lies in its ability to trace the footsteps of great figures produced by Morioka, such as the monument to Nitobe Tsutomu, the grandfather of Nitobe Inazo, and the bronze statue of Hara Takashi.
Charm as a Cherry Blossom Viewing Spot
Morioka Castle Ruins Park is also known as one of Iwate Prefecture’s leading cherry blossom viewing spots. The park is home to approximately 200 cherry trees, including Somei Yoshino and Edo Higan cherry trees, which typically reach their peak bloom from late April to early May.
The contrast between the white stone walls and the cherry blossoms are breathtaking, attracting many visitors. The trees are also illuminated at night, allowing visitors to enjoy a magical view of the cherry blossoms after dark.
The Beauty of Autumn Foliage
In autumn, the park is also popular as a spot for viewing autumn leaves. Maple and ginkgo trees change color, creating a beautiful landscape in harmony with the stone walls. The view from the main keep is particularly magnificent, making it a classic spot for autumn sightseeing in Morioka.
The History of Morioka Castle Ruins Park
Development as a Modern Park
Since its opening in 1906 (Meiji 39), Iwate Park has developed as a place of relaxation for the citizens of Morioka. Throughout the Taisho and Showa periods, park facilities were improved, including the installation of sports facilities and playground equipment.
After the war, development as an urban park progressed, with improvements such as enhanced landscaping and renovation of the park’s paths. During Japan’s high-growth period in the Showa era, Morioka Castle Ruins became increasingly important as a place for citizens’ leisure activities and was also used as a venue for events.
Historical Site Development and Preservation Activities
In the Heisei era, the development policy shifted to one that emphasized the value of the site as a historical landmark. Restoration work on the stone walls and archaeological excavations began in earnest, and efforts are underway to uncover the former appearance of Morioka Castle.
Following its selection as one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles in 2006, the number of tourists from all over the country increased, establishing its position as a representative tourist spot in Morioka.
Currently, Morioka City continues its efforts to balance the preservation and utilization of the historical site based on the “Morioka Castle Ruins Development Basic Plan.”
Park Spots and Facilities Guide
Morioka History and Culture Museum
Adjacent to Morioka Castle Ruins Park is the “Morioka History and Culture Museum,” which opened in 2011. This exhibition facility showcases the history and culture of Morioka, displaying a reconstructed model of Morioka Castle and materials related to the Nanbu clan.
A tourist information center is also located on-site, making it a convenient base for sightseeing in Morioka. It’s a must-visit facility when visiting Morioka Castle.
Sakurayama Shrine
To the north of the park is Sakurayama Shrine, dedicated to the tutelary deity of the Nanbu clan. This shrine was revered by successive feudal lords and continues to attract the faith of Morioka citizens. Many worshipers visit every year for the New Year’s pilgrimage.
Access and Parking
Morioka Castle Ruins Park is approximately a 20-minute walk or a 10-minute bus ride from JR Morioka Station. It’s right next to the “Morioka Castle Ruins Park” bus stop.
There is no dedicated parking lot, but there are several paid parking lots nearby. During cherry blossom season and other busy times, it can get crowded, so using public transportation is recommended.
Event Guide
Morioka Cherry Blossom Festival
Held annually from mid-April to early May, the Morioka Cherry Blossom Festival is the largest event at Morioka Castle Ruins Park. During the cherry blossom season, the trees are illuminated at night, and numerous food stalls are set up.
The festival attracts many cherry blossom viewers and has become a spring tradition in Morioka.
Other Events
Various events are held throughout the seasons, including the Morioka Castle Ruins Park Summer Festival in summer and the Morioka Castle Ruins Park Autumn Leaves Festival in autumn. Historical lectures and guided tours are also regularly conducted by local community groups.
Nearby Spots and Sightseeing
Stroll Along the Nakatsu River
The Nakatsu River, which flows along the east side of Morioka Castle Ruins Park, offers a beautiful walking path. Cherry trees line the riverbank, creating a tunnel of blossoms in spring. Autumn, when salmon can be seen swimming upstream, is also a highlight.
Traces of Morioka’s Castle Town
The townscape, which retains traces of its former castle town, is one of the charms of Morioka tourism. In areas with old town names such as Konyamachi and Sakanacho, old merchant houses and storehouses are scattered throughout.
Morioka’s Three Great Noodles
When sightseeing in Morioka, you can’t miss the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka”: Wanko Soba, Morioka Reimen, and Morioka Jajamen. Many famous restaurants are located around the castle ruins, allowing you to enjoy gourmet food along with historical exploration.
Natural Environment and Ecosystem
Morioka Castle Ruins Park maintains a rich natural environment despite being in an urban area. A variety of trees grow within the park, and it is also known as a spot for observing wild birds.
You can see small birds such as great tits and Japanese white-eyes, and sometimes even larger birds such as gray herons. Enjoying the changing seasons is another charm of this park.
Summary: The Historical Value and Modern Significance of Morioka Castle
Morioka Castle, built as the residence of the Nanbu clan, who held a 200,000 koku domain, is one of Tohoku’s finest stone-walled castles, completed over approximately 90 years. Its beautiful white granite walls, a rare example of a castle entirely constructed of stone in the Tohoku region, continue to fascinate visitors.
Since the Meiji era, it has been known as Iwate Park (Morioka Castle Ruins Park), a beloved local landmark, serving diverse roles as a cherry blossom viewing spot, a literary sanctuary, and a place for learning history. Literary figures such as Ishikawa Takuboku and Miyazawa Kenji spent their youth here, featuring Morioka Castle in their works.
Currently, it continues to be preserved and maintained as a national historical site, and as one of Japan’s 100 Famous Castles, it attracts many castle enthusiasts and tourists from all over the country. Its convenient location in the heart of Morioka City makes it an ideal starting point for sightseeing in Morioka.
Morioka Castle Ruins Park, where history, nature, and literature harmonize, reveals different faces depending on the season and time of day you visit. You can enjoy the beauty of each season: cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, vibrant autumn leaves, and snowy winter landscapes.
When you visit Morioka, be sure to visit Morioka Castle Ruins Park and experience the history and culture of the Nanbu clan, as well as the charm of Morioka itself. You will surely be moved by the historical stories told by the white stone walls.
