Complete Guide to the History and Highlights of Edo Castle | From Ota Dokan’s Construction to the Modern Imperial Palace
Edo Castle is one of the most important castles in Japanese history. From its construction during the Muromachi period, it functioned as the political center of the Edo Shogunate, and today it is a symbolic place of Japan as the Imperial Palace. This article provides a comprehensive explanation of Edo Castle’s history, structure, existing remains, and how to visit.
Origins of Edo Castle | Construction by Ota Dokan
Ota Dokan and the Birth of Edo Castle
The history of Edo Castle begins in 1457 (Kōshō 3) when Ota Dokan built it. Ota Dokan was a retainer of the Ōgigayatsu Uesugi family and built the castle in Edo, Toshima District, Musashi Province, as a strategically important location in the Kanto region.
At that time, Edo was located at the southern end of the Kanto Plain, at the northern corner of Edo Bay (present-day Tokyo Bay), and was a key point for both land and water transportation. Dokan recognized this geographical advantage and constructed a relatively small but strong castle.
Changes in the Castle After the Death of Ota Dokan
In 1486, Ota Dokan was assassinated by his lord, Ogigayatsu Uesugi Sadamasa. After Dokan’s death, Edo Castle came under the direct control of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi clan, but its maintenance and management gradually deteriorated, leading to its fall into disrepair.
In 1524 (Daiei 4), when Hojo Ujitsuna defeated the Ogigayatsu Uesugi clan, Edo Castle came under the control of the Later Hojo clan. However, even during this period, Edo Castle remained a subsidiary castle of Odawara Castle, the Hojo clan’s main base, and no large-scale expansion was undertaken.
Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Entry into Edo Castle and its Major Renovation
Ieyasu’s Entry into the Kanto Region
In 1590 (Tensho 18), after Toyotomi Hideyoshi destroyed the Hojo clan of Odawara, the Kanto region (the eight provinces of Kanto) was granted to Tokugawa Ieyasu. On August 1st of the same year, Ieyasu entered Edo Castle, deciding to make this dilapidated castle his base.
At that time, Edo was an undeveloped area with vast wetlands. However, Ieyasu recognized Edo’s potential. He considered its convenient location for maritime transport facing Edo Bay, its central position in the Kanto Plain, and its future development prospects.
A Large-Scale Castle Construction Project spanning Three Generations
After Tokugawa Ieyasu’s entry, Edo Castle underwent an unprecedentedly long construction project spanning three generations, transforming it into the largest castle in Japanese history.
The Era of the First Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1590-1616)
Immediately upon entering the castle, Ieyasu began developing the castle and its surrounding town. He established the basic structure of the main keep, second bailey, and third bailey, and also began construction of the castle tower. He also employed a method called “Tenka Fushin,” where he ordered various daimyo throughout the country to share the burden of construction (civil engineering work), thus advancing large-scale projects.
Major projects during Ieyasu’s era included the reclamation of Hibiya Inlet, the leveling of Kanda Hill, and the construction of the outer moat. These projects not only laid the foundation for Edo Castle but also enabled the expansion of the castle town.
The Era of the Second Shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada (1605-1632)
Hidetada inherited Ieyasu’s projects and further expanded the castle. In particular, the Tenka Fushin project carried out from 1606 to 1607 included the construction of the Nishinomaru (Western Bailey) and the expansion of the moat. Furthermore, a large-scale renovation was carried out in 1623, and the castle tower was also restored.
The Era of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the Third Shogun (1623-1651)
During Iemitsu’s reign, Edo Castle reached its final completion. In 1638, a magnificent castle tower, approximately 58 meters tall with five stories, six floors above ground, and one basement level, was completed. This was one of the largest castle towers in the history of Japanese castle architecture.
Edo Castle during Iemitsu’s era boasted a vast outer area of approximately 2,082 hectares and featured a complex and robust structure with various enclosures (kuruwa) such as the Honmaru, Ninomaru, Sannomaru, Nishinomaru, Kitanomaru, and Fukiage. Its scale, extending approximately 5.5 kilometers east-west and 4 kilometers north-south, truly symbolized the power and prestige of the Edo Shogunate.
Structure and Characteristics of Edo Castle
Adoption of a Spiral Layout
The most distinctive feature of Edo Castle lies in its unique layout (castle design). Edo Castle employed a structure known as a “spiral layout,” with the main keep (Honmaru) at its center, surrounded by the second, third, and western baileys arranged in a spiral pattern.
This structure required enemies to break through multiple lines of defense before reaching the main keep, resulting in extremely high defensive capabilities. Furthermore, each bailey was separated by moats and stone walls, and masugata (square-shaped enclosures) were provided at the entrances (koguchi), demonstrating meticulous attention to detail in defense.
Keep and Turrets
The most famous keep of Edo Castle is the one completed in 1638 during the time of Iemitsu. Standing approximately 58 meters tall, and reaching about 80 meters including the stone walls, this keep surpassed even the keeps of Osaka Castle and Nagoya Castle in scale.
However, this magnificent keep was destroyed in the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657 (Meireki 3). Although the keep’s base was rebuilt afterward, the keep itself was never reconstructed, and remains so to this day.
After the castle keep burned down, the Fujimi Turret served as a substitute for the keep at Edo Castle. The Fujimi Turret is one of the few remaining structures and is the largest three-story turret in Edo Castle. As its name suggests, Mount Fuji could once be seen from this turret.
Other turrets, such as the Fushimi Turret and the Sakurada Tatsumi Turret, also exist, conveying the former appearance of Edo Castle.
Stone Walls and Gates
The stone walls of Edo Castle exhibit different construction methods depending on the era, making them valuable resources for learning about the evolution of castle architecture. You can actually see the development of techniques from the early rough-hewn stonework to the fitted and cut-stone construction methods.
Regarding gates, while numerous gates once existed, only a limited number remain. Sakurada Gate, Tayasu Gate, and Shimizu Gate are among those that still exist and are designated as Important Cultural Properties. Sakuradamon Gate, in particular, is a historically significant location as the site of the “Sakuradamon Incident” in 1860, where Grand Elder Ii Naosuke was assassinated.
Historical Events and Changes at Edo Castle
The Great Fire of Meireki and the Destruction of the Castle Tower
The Great Fire of Meireki, which struck Edo from January 18th to 20th, 1657 (Meireki 3), caused immense damage to Edo Castle. This fire destroyed almost all of the major buildings, including the castle tower, the main palace, and the second palace.
After the fire, the reconstruction of the castle tower was postponed at the suggestion of Hoshina Masayuki, the uncle of the fourth shogun, Tokugawa Ietsuna. Masayuki argued that “the castle tower lacks practicality, and the funds for its reconstruction should be used for the reconstruction of the castle town and relief for the people.” As a result of this decision, the Edo Castle tower was never rebuilt.
As the Political Center of the Edo Shogunate
Edo Castle was not merely a military facility, but functioned as the political center of the Edo Shogunate. The Honmaru Palace contained not only the Shogun’s living quarters, but also a grand hall for conducting government affairs and rooms where the Roju (senior councilors) worked; this was where Japanese politics revolved.
Furthermore, the Nishinomaru (Western Enclosure) housed the Shogun’s heir and the retired Shogun, while the Ninomaru (Second Enclosure) was home to the Shogun’s wife. Each enclosure had a different role.
Various daimyo (feudal lords) were obligated to regularly visit Edo Castle and have an audience with the Shogun. Especially during important events such as New Year’s and the Five Festivals, the daimyo gathered at Edo Castle to demonstrate their loyalty to the Shogun.
From the End of the Edo Period to the Meiji Restoration
In 1868 (Keio 4), the 15th Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, carried out the Taisei Hokan (restoration of imperial rule), bringing an end to the Edo Shogunate. On April 11th of the same year, Edo Castle surrendered peacefully to the new government forces, bringing to an end its approximately 270-year history as the residence of the Tokugawa shogunate.
After its surrender, Edo Castle was renamed “Tokyo Castle” and became the temporary residence (temporary palace) of Emperor Meiji. Then, in 1869 (Meiji 2), when Emperor Meiji moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, Edo Castle officially became the Imperial Palace.
Modern Edo Castle | Its Appearance as the Imperial Palace
Composition of the Imperial Palace
Currently, the former Edo Castle grounds are divided into the Imperial Palace, the Imperial Palace Outer Garden, Kitanomaru Park, and the Imperial Palace East Garden.
The Imperial Palace is the residence of Their Majesties the Emperor and Empress and contains public facilities such as the palace. While general public access is not permitted, tours are possible with prior application.
The Imperial Palace East Garden is the site of the former Honmaru, Ninomaru, and Sannomaru, and is open to the public. Here, you can see the remains of Edo Castle up close and visit historical buildings such as the castle tower base, Fujimi Turret, Obansho (main guardhouse), and Hyakunin Bansho (hundred-man guardhouse).
Kitanomaru Park is the site of the former Kitanomaru (northern enclosure) and is now a park. It contains facilities such as the Nippon Budokan and the Science Museum.
Imperial Palace Outer Garden is the area containing Nijubashi Bridge and Sakuradamon Gate, and is always open to the public. It is a popular spot visited by many tourists.
Visiting the Remains of Edo Castle
The remains of Edo Castle are scattered throughout the heart of Tokyo, making it ideal for historical walks.
The castle tower base is located within the East Garden of the Imperial Palace, and the stone walls rebuilt after the Great Fire of Meireki remain. Climbing to the base allows you to appreciate the scale of the former castle tower.
Fujimi Turret is a three-story turret located in the southeastern corner of the main enclosure and is the largest turret still existing at Edo Castle. While viewing is usually limited to the exterior, its elegant appearance is a must-see.
Sakuradamon Gate is one of the outer gates of Edo Castle, featuring a massive masugata-mon (square-shaped) gate structure. It is historically significant as the site of the Sakuradamon Incident.
Otemon Gate is the main gate of Edo Castle and still functions as the entrance to the East Garden of the Imperial Palace. The gate’s structure and stone walls offer insights into Edo Castle’s defensive strategies.
Stone walls remain throughout the castle grounds, allowing observation of differences in construction methods across different eras. The stone walls around the main keep are particularly impressive.
Practical Guide to Visiting Edo Castle
How to Visit the East Garden of the Imperial Palace
The East Garden of the Imperial Palace is open free of charge every day except Mondays and Fridays (except national holidays other than the Emperor’s birthday). Entry is possible through Otemon Gate, Hirakawamon Gate, and Kitahanebashi Gate. An entry ticket is received upon entry and returned upon exit.
Visiting hours vary by season, but are generally from 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM (5:00 PM from March 1st to April 14th and September 1st to the end of October, and 4:00 PM from November 1st to the end of February).
The grounds are vast, and a thorough visit takes about two hours. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
Imperial Palace General Tour
General tours of the Imperial Palace, including the palace buildings and the main gate bridge (commonly known as “Nijubashi”), require advance reservations. Reservations can be made through the Imperial Household Agency website or on the day of the visit (first-come, first-served).
The tour is entirely outdoors, covering approximately 2.2 kilometers and taking about an hour to complete. Visitors can see the Madoguchi-kan, the East Garden of the Palace, the main gate bridge, and more, experiencing the majestic atmosphere of the Imperial Palace.
While admission is free, there is a baggage check, so it is recommended to bring minimal belongings.
Recommended Sightseeing Route
To efficiently view the remains of Edo Castle, the following route is recommended:
- Enter through the Otemon Gate and observe the masugata (square enclosure) structure of the gate.
- View art related to the Imperial family at the Sannomaru Shozokan Museum (exhibits change periodically).
- Learn about Edo Castle’s security system at the Obansho and Hyakuninbansho.
- Stroll through the Honmaru Ruins and climb to the Tenshudai (castle tower) base.
- View the Fujimi-yagura (Fujimi Turret) from the outside.
- Enjoy the beauty of Edo-period gardens at the Ninomaru Garden.
- Exit through the Hirakawa Gate.
This route allows you to see the main remains of Edo Castle in approximately two hours.
Movement Towards the Reconstruction of Edo Castle’s Keep
In recent years, activities aimed at reconstructing Edo Castle’s keep have been underway, primarily led by the NPO “Edo Castle Keep Reconstruction Association.” This movement emphasizes its value as a tourist resource and its historical significance, advocating for a faithful wooden reconstruction.
However, reconstruction would require a large sum of money (estimated to be in the hundreds of billions of yen), and given the nature of the Imperial Palace, there are many challenges to its realization. Nevertheless, this movement has re-emphasized the historical value of Edo Castle and attracted the interest of many people.
Attractions around Edo Castle
Chidorigafuchi
Located northwest of the Imperial Palace, Chidorigafuchi is part of the outer moat of Edo Castle. In spring, approximately 260 cherry trees bloom, making it a famous cherry blossom viewing spot in Tokyo. Visitors can also enjoy viewing the cherry blossoms from the moat by boat, attracting many tourists.
Kitanomaru Park
Kitanomaru Park contains remnants of Edo Castle, such as the Tayasu Gate and Shimizu Gate. The Nippon Budokan hosts various martial arts tournaments and concerts, and the Science Museum offers hands-on science exhibits.
Remains of the Outer Moat of Edo Castle
Parts of the outer moat of Edo Castle remain in areas such as Ichigaya, Yotsuya, and Akasaka. The remains of the outer moat can be seen from the windows of JR Chuo Line trains, making it a valuable relic of the Edo period remaining within the city.
Cultural Significance of Edo Castle
Edo Castle was not merely a castle structure, but a center of Japanese politics, culture, and urban planning, profoundly influencing Japanese history.
The Tokugawa Shogunate maintained its power from Edo Castle for approximately 270 years, allowing Japan to enjoy a long period of peace and stability. During this era, sometimes called “Pax Tokugawa,” Edo developed into one of the world’s largest cities, and a unique townspeople culture flourished.
Furthermore, the construction of Edo Castle involved the mobilization of feudal lords from across the country, bringing together stonemasonry and architectural techniques from various regions. This marked the pinnacle of Japanese castle architecture, with Edo Castle representing its culmination.
Today, the remains of Edo Castle are scattered throughout central Tokyo, forming a unique landscape where modern city life and Edo-period history coexist. This historical heritage is an important element of Tokyo’s identity and is cherished by many.
Summary | Experiencing the History of Edo Castle
Edo Castle is one of Japan’s most representative castles, boasting a history of approximately 570 years, from its construction by Ota Dokan in 1457 to its current status as the Imperial Palace. Through large-scale construction projects spanning three generations of Tokugawa shoguns—Ieyasu, Hidetada, and Iemitsu—it developed into the largest castle in Japanese history and functioned as the center of the Edo shogunate.
Edo Castle witnessed turning points in Japanese history, including the destruction of its keep in the Great Fire of Meireki, the end of the Edo shogunate, and its conversion into the Imperial Palace. The remaining stone walls, turrets, and gates still convey its magnificent history.
The East Garden and Outer Garden of the Imperial Palace are open to the public, allowing anyone to experience the history of Edo Castle. When visiting Tokyo, be sure to explore the remains of Edo Castle and immerse yourself in Japanese history and culture. Walking through the place where the Tokugawa shoguns once conducted their affairs and where it functioned as the center of Japan will make history feel much closer.
