Complete Guide to Bitchu Matsuyama Castle | History, Highlights, and Access Information for the Mountain Castle in the Sky
Located in Takahashi City, Okayama Prefecture, Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is a mountain castle with the highest existing keep in Japan, built on Mt. Gagyūzan at an altitude of 430 meters. Its fantastical appearance floating above a sea of clouds has earned it the nickname “Mountain Castle in the Sky,” and it is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. This article thoroughly explains everything you need to know before visiting Bitchu Matsuyama Castle, from its history and highlights to access methods and the best time to visit.
What is Bitchu Matsuyama Castle?
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is a mountain castle located in Uchiyama-shita, Takahashi City, Okayama Prefecture, and is a valuable castle that is counted as one of the 12 existing castle keeps. It is the only mountain castle in Japan with an existing keep, and its rarity attracts many castle enthusiasts and tourists.
Basic Information
- Location: 1 Uchiyamashita, Takahashi City, Okayama Prefecture
- Elevation: 430 meters (location of the keep)
- Year of Construction: 1240 (En’ō 2)
- Castle Structure: Concentric mountain castle
- Keep Structure: Composite watchtower type, 2 stories, 2 floors (built in 1683)
- Cultural Property Designation: Nationally Designated Important Cultural Property (keep, two-story turret, earthen wall)
- One of Japan’s Top 100 Castles: No. 68
Characteristics of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle
The most distinctive feature of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is that it is a mountain castle with an existing keep. While there are 12 castles in Japan with existing keeps, most are flatland castles or hill castles. Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is the only full-fledged mountain castle with a surviving keep.
Furthermore, in the early mornings from autumn to winter, when weather conditions are right, a sea of clouds forms, offering a spectacular view of the castle appearing to float above the clouds. This “castle in the sky” has recently become a hot topic on social media, attracting many tourists from both Japan and abroad.
History of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle
The history of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle spans approximately 780 years, and it has reached its current form through numerous battles and renovations.
Kamakura Period: The Beginning of the Castle
The origins of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle date back to 1240 (En’ō 2), when Akiba Shigenobu built a fort on Gagyūzan Mountain. Initially called “Gagyū Castle,” it functioned as a base for local powerful families. From the Kamakura period to the Nanboku-chō period, powerful local warlords served as castle lords, making it the center of regional control.
Sengoku Period: The Era of the Mimura Clan
During the Sengoku period, the Mimura clan, a powerful daimyo family of Bitchu, became the castle lords. During the reigns of Mimura Iechika and Mimura Motochika, the castle was significantly expanded, strengthening its function as a Sengoku-period mountain castle. However, in 1575 (Tensho 3), amidst the power struggle between the Mori and Oda clans, the Mimura clan was destroyed, and the castle came under the control of the Mori clan.
Edo Period: Renovation into a Modern Castle
In the Edo period, the castle was developed as the administrative center of the Bitchu Matsuyama Domain. Particularly important was the major renovation by Mizutani Katsumune, who became the lord of the domain in 1681 (Tenna 1). Mizutani Katsumune spent three years extensively renovating the castle, completing the current keep in 1683 (Tenna 3).
The keep, turrets, and stone walls built during this period remain to this day, forming the core of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle. After the Mizutani clan, the castle changed hands several times, with the Ando, Ishikawa, and Itakura clans ruling the castle until the Meiji Restoration.
From the Late Edo Period to the Meiji Era
During the turbulent late Edo period, the Bitchu Matsuyama Domain remained loyal to the shogunate until the very end, but surrendered to the new government forces in 1868 (Meiji 1). After the Meiji Restoration, many castles were demolished under the castle demolition decree, but the keep of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle was saved thanks to the efforts of the local people.
However, due to years of exposure to the elements, the castle deteriorated, and by the early Showa period, it was in danger of collapsing. Restoration work began in 1940 (Showa 15), and in the 1960s, a full-scale dismantling and repair was carried out, restoring it to its current form.
Highlights of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle boasts numerous attractions, including historically valuable buildings and beautiful scenery.
Existing Keep
The greatest highlight of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is undoubtedly its existing keep. Built in 1683, the castle tower is a two-story, two-tiered, complex watchtower-type structure, a beautiful building with a striking contrast between its white plaster exterior walls and black clapboard siding.
Inside the castle tower, there is a hearth, a very rare feature unique to mountain castles. It is thought to have been a measure to combat the cold and dampness of winter. From the top floor of the castle tower, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Takahashi city, experiencing the scenery seen by the castle’s former lords.
Stone Walls
The stone walls of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle are highly regarded as “stone walls built on bedrock,” skillfully utilizing the natural bedrock. The large stone wall of the main enclosure is particularly impressive, with a wall over 10 meters high built on the mountainside.
The stone-laying techniques vary from “nozurazumi” (rough stone masonry) to “uchikomi-tsugi” (fitted stone masonry), reflecting the castle’s history. The path from the Otemon Gate ruins to the main enclosure presents a landscape where the massive bedrock and stone walls are integrated, offering a powerful sense of the mountain castle’s grandeur. ### Double-Story Turret
The double-story turret, designated as an Important Cultural Property along with the main keep, is a defensive structure located on the east side of the main enclosure. Built during renovations in 1683, it is a valuable surviving structure, just like the main keep. Inside, there are exhibits of weapons and armor from that period, as well as exhibits on the castle’s history, allowing visitors to learn about the castle’s defensive system.
Earthen Walls and Gates
The earthen walls surrounding the main enclosure are also designated as an Important Cultural Property, preserving their beautiful white plaster finish. Furthermore, the restored turret gate and earthen walls are valuable historical materials that convey the techniques of Edo period castle architecture to the present day.
“Sanjuuro,” the Cat Lord
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is home to “Sanjuuro,” the cat lord who has been affectionately known as the “Castle Lord” since 2018. This stray cat, who settled in the castle grounds, became popular with tourists and has now been appointed as a tourism ambassador for Takahashi City. If you’re lucky, you might spot him around the main keep.
A Mountain Castle Floating in a Sea of Clouds
The reason Bitchu Matsuyama Castle has become nationally known as a “mountain castle in the sky” is its fantastical appearance floating in a sea of clouds.
Conditions for the Occurrence of a Sea of Clouds
A sea of clouds can be seen at Bitchu Matsuyama Castle when the following conditions are met:
- Season: Late September to early April (late October to early December is especially best)
- Time of Day: From dawn until around 8:00 AM
- Weather Conditions:
- Large temperature difference between the daytime of the previous day and the dawn of the current day
- High humidity (e.g., the day after it rained the previous day)
- Light wind
- Clear skies
Best Spots for Viewing the Sea of Clouds
The best spot to view Bitchu Matsuyama Castle floating in a sea of clouds is the “Bitchu Matsuyama Castle Observation Deck,” a short distance from the castle. This observation deck is located on the north side of the castle, along National Route 484, and attracts many photographers and tourists during the sea of clouds season.
From the observation deck, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Bitchu Matsuyama Castle floating above the sea of clouds, and the sight of the castle illuminated by the morning sun is breathtaking. However, parking is limited, so it gets crowded from early morning on weekends and holidays during the sea of clouds season.
Access Information
Since Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is a mountain castle, access takes some time. Be sure to plan your visit carefully.
Access by Public Transportation
Train:
- Get off at “Bitchu-Takahashi Station” on the JR Hakubi Line
- Approximately 10 minutes by shared taxi (reservation required) from the station to the Shiromibashi Park parking lot
- Or take a local bus (bus service is infrequent, so check availability)
Taxi from the Station:
- Approximately 10 minutes from Bitchu-Takahashi Station to the Shiromibashi Park parking lot
- The fare is approximately 1,500 yen
Access by Car
Expressway:
- Approximately 25 minutes from “Kayo IC” on the Okayama Expressway via National Route 484
- Approximately 25 minutes from “Hokubo IC” on the Chugoku Expressway via National Route 313 and Prefectural Road 58
Parking:
- Shiromibashi Park parking lot (free): Accessible by private car
- During peak seasons (Golden Week, autumn foliage season, etc.), a shuttle bus operates from the Fuigo Pass parking lot
Access from Shiromibashi Park Parking Lot to the Castle Tower
There are the following routes from Shiromibashi Park Parking Lot to the castle tower:
1. Shuttle Bus + Walking (Regular Season):
- Shuttle bus from Shiromibashi Park Parking Lot to Fuigo Pass (paid, 400 yen one way)
- Approximately 20 minutes on foot from Fuigo Pass to the castle tower (mountain trail, approximately 700 meters)
2. Walking the Entire Route:
- Approximately 40-50 minutes on foot from Shiromibashi Park Parking Lot to the castle tower
- A route suitable for those with strong legs
3. Peak Season:
- Park at Fuigo Pass Parking Lot and walk for approximately 20 minutes from there
Precautions When Visiting the Castle
- Clothing: Comfortable walking shoes such as sneakers are essential as you will be walking on mountain trails.
- Estimated Time: Allow at least 2 hours for the round trip from the parking lot.
- Weather: Be careful as the ground can be slippery in rainy weather.
- Physical Fitness: Due to the steep slopes and stairs, a certain level of physical fitness is required.
- Hydration: Especially in summer, bring your own drinks.
Tourist Information
Opening Hours and Fees
Opening Hours:
- April to September: 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM
- October to March: 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM
- Closed during the New Year holidays (December 29th to January 3rd)
Admission Fee:
- Adults: 500 yen
- Elementary and Junior High School Students: 200 yen
- Group discounts available
Estimated Time Required:
- Visiting only the area around the keep: Approximately 30 minutes
- Thorough visit: Approximately 1 to 1.5 hours
- Total time required including climbing time: Approximately 2 to 3 hours
Best Season
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is beautiful in every season, but the most recommended time is:
Autumn (October to November):
- High probability of sea of clouds occurring
- Beautiful autumn foliage
- Mild weather makes climbing the castle easy
Spring (April):
- Cherry blossoms bloom, allowing visitors to enjoy the collaboration of the castle and cherry blossoms
- Beautiful fresh greenery
Winter (December-February):
- Sea of clouds season
- The castle is fantastical when covered in snow (however, climbing is difficult)
Summer (July-August):
- Lush greenery and a landscape typical of a mountain castle
- However, precautions against heat and insects are necessary
Nearby Tourist Spots
Samurai Residences:
- Edo-period samurai residences remain in Takahashi City, allowing visitors to enjoy the atmosphere of a castle town.
Raikyu-ji Temple Garden:
- A nationally designated scenic spot, this beautiful dry landscape garden is said to have been created by Kobori Enshu.
Takahashi City Local History Museum:
- Exhibits materials related to Bitchu Matsuyama Castle and the history of Takahashi.
Fukiya Furusato Village:
- This is an important traditional building preservation district characterized by its red Sekishu tiles and bengara-colored exterior.
Photo Spots and Photogenic Ways to Enjoy
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is an attractive subject for photography enthusiasts.
Recommended Photo Spots
1. Bitchu Matsuyama Castle Observation Deck:
- The best spot to photograph the sea of clouds and the entire castle.
- Beautiful early morning light.
2. Near the Otemon Gate Ruins:
- You can photograph the combination of the stone walls and the castle.
- Particularly beautiful during the autumn foliage season.
3. View from the Main Keep:
- A panoramic view of Takahashi city and the surrounding mountains.
- The sunset view is also spectacular.
4. Angle Looking Up at the Keep:
- You can feel the dignity of the keep built on top of the stone walls.
- A composition with a blue sky in the background is recommended.
Photography Tips
- Sea of Clouds Photography: Tripod is essential; be careful not to increase the ISO sensitivity too much.
- Keep Photography: Beautiful in the morning sunlight.
- Autumn Foliage Season: Make the most of the color contrast.
- Wide-Angle Lens: Express the power of the stone walls and keep.
- Telephoto Lens: Effective for photographing sea of clouds from the observation deck
Trivia about Bitchu Matsuyama Castle
One of Japan’s Three Great Mountain Castles
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is counted among Japan’s “Three Great Mountain Castles,” along with Iwamura Castle (Gifu Prefecture) and Takatori Castle (Nara Prefecture). However, Bitchu Matsuyama Castle is the only one with an existing keep.
Filming Location for Movies and Dramas
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle has been used as a filming location for many movies and dramas due to its beautiful scenery. It is particularly frequently used for historical dramas, appearing in the NHK Taiga drama “Sanada Maru” and the movie “Tenku no Hachi” (The Sky Bee).
The Highest Existing Keep in Japan
Located at an altitude of 430 meters, Bitchu Matsuyama Castle’s keep is the highest of the 12 existing keeps. This record further enhances its rarity as a mountain castle.
Alternative Name of the Castle
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle has the alternative name “Gagyujo” (臥牛城). This name originates from the fact that the shape of Mount Gagyūzan, where the castle was built, resembles a reclining cow.
Preparations and Manners for Your Visit
Checklist of Items to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes (sneakers or hiking boots)
- Drinks (especially in summer)
- Towel/Sweat wipes
- Rain gear (folding umbrella or raincoat)
- Camera/Smartphone
- Insect repellent (in summer)
- Hat (for sun protection)
- Small change (for shuttle bus fare, etc.)
Manners When Visiting the Castle
- No shoes allowed inside the keep (slippers are provided)
- No eating or drinking inside the keep
- Do not touch or climb on the stone walls or structures
- Always take your trash with you
- Be considerate of other tourists
- Do not force petting or feed the cat lord you see
Summary: The Charm of Bitchū Matsuyama Castle
Bitchū Matsuyama Castle is a mountain castle that occupies an extremely important position in the history of Japanese castles. As the only mountain castle with a surviving keep, its historical value is immeasurable. Furthermore, its appearance as a “mountain castle in the sky,” floating above a sea of clouds, continues to captivate many.
The climb to the 430-meter-high summit is not easy, but the magnificent scenery and historical buildings that await you are well worth the effort. The beautiful landscape created by the stone walls and keep, the panoramic view of Takahashi city from the main keep, and, if you’re lucky, the feline lord of the castle—all of these are unique experiences only available at Bitchu Matsuyama Castle.
Bitchu Matsuyama Castle displays different expressions in each season, offering new discoveries with every visit. Especially during the early morning hours of the sea of clouds season, the fantastical view from the observation deck will be a memory to cherish for a lifetime. Please come and experience the essence of Japanese castle culture at Bitchu Matsuyama Castle. A unique mountain castle experience, where history and nature harmonize, awaits you.