Sakiyama Castle (Noto Town) Complete Guide | The Miyake Clan’s Residence and the Sengoku History of Noto
What is Sakiyama Castle?
Sakiyama Castle (Sakiyama-jo) was a Sengoku period hilltop castle located in Utsutsu, Noto Town, Hōsu District, Ishikawa Prefecture. Also known as Tendon-jo, it served as the residence of the Miyake clan, important retainers of the Noto Hatakeyama clan, and became a base for controlling the entire Noto region.
Built on a hill overlooking the present-day Utsutsu Port, this castle is believed to have once had characteristics of a coastal castle, situated on a cape jutting out into the sea. The castle grounds, on a plateau 29.8 meters above sea level with a relative height of 27.8 meters, extended 325 meters east-west and 150 meters north-south.
The exact construction date is unclear, but it functioned as the Miyake clan’s base from the late Muromachi period to the Sengoku period, playing a crucial role in the politics and military affairs of Noto Province.
History of Sakiyama Castle
The Miyake Clan and the Noto Hatakeyama Clan
The Miyake clan was one of the powerful vassal groups serving the Noto Hatakeyama clan, and was a local lord who controlled the entire Noto region (around present-day Noto Town). Miyake Fusahiro, in particular, is known as one of the “Seven Generals,” a group of important vassals of the Hatakeyama clan, and was deeply involved in the politics of Noto Province.
The Seven Generals refer to the seven families of important vassals who supported the Noto Hatakeyama clan, including the Nukui, Yuza, and Miyake clans. These vassal groups possessed their own territories and military power, and were indispensable to maintaining the power of the Hatakeyama clan.
The Rise of Miyake Nagamori
Miyake Fusahiro’s adopted son was the second son of Nukui Tsugumune, the lord of Tendō Castle and also one of the Seven Generals. He adopted the name Miyake Nagamori and, together with his older brother Nukui Kagetaka, wielded considerable power within Noto Province.
Nagamori and Kagetaka, along with Yuza Tsugumitsu and others, seized real power within the Noto Hatakeyama clan and expanded their political influence. Sakiyama Castle is believed to have played the most crucial role as the Miyake clan’s power base during this period.
The Battle of Nanao Castle and Uesugi Kenshin
In the late Sengoku period, Noto Province came under attack from Uesugi Kenshin of Echigo Province. In the Battle of Nanao Castle, which began in 1576, Miyake Nagamori made a crucial decision.
Nagamori, along with his brother Nukui Kagetaka and Yuza Tsugumitsu, secretly defected to the Uesugi side. This betrayal was a fatal blow to the Noto Hatakeyama clan, and Nanao Castle fell into the hands of the Uesugi army the following year, 1577.
It is believed that several factors intertwined behind this defection: the decline of the Hatakeyama clan, power struggles within their retainers, and the overwhelming military power of Uesugi Kenshin.
The Uprising at Ishidōyama and the End of Miyake Nagamori
In June 1582, after Oda Nobunaga’s death in the Honnō-ji Incident, the situation in Noto Province became fluid again. Miyake Nagamori rallied former Hatakeyama retainers and raised an army at Ishidōyama to recapture Nanao Castle, which was under the control of Maeda Toshiie.
Ishidōyama was known as a sacred mountain in Noto Province and was a religious and military base with a large number of warrior monks. Nagamori aimed to restore the former Hatakeyama forces from this base, but he was defeated by a counterattack from Maeda Toshiie and Sakuma Morimasa, and was killed in battle.
With the Battle of Ishidoyama, the Miyake clan’s power completely collapsed, and it is believed that Sakiyama Castle also ended its historical role.
Structure and Layout of Sakiyama Castle
Location and Topography
Sakiyama Castle was built on a plateau overlooking the town of Ushitsu. Its size, 325 meters east-west and 150 meters north-south, is standard for a castle of a local lord in Noto Province.
With an elevation of 29.8 meters and a relative height of 27.8 meters, it is clear that it was not a particularly high mountain castle, and had strong characteristics of a flatland castle. Given its location near the sea, it is presumed to have also served the functions of monitoring maritime traffic and managing the port.
Arrangement of Enclosures
While the specific arrangement of enclosures is unclear due to later development, it is believed that multiple enclosures were arranged on the plateau. The “Noto Diary” from 1817 (Bunka 14) contains the entry, “Although a moat is visible, the fortifications are unclear due to the surrounding fields.” This indicates that by the Edo period, the area had already been extensively cultivated, making it difficult to discern the remains.
The existence of a moat is recorded, confirming the presence of a defensive structure that divided the ridge. Furthermore, it is presumed that cliffs were constructed along the edge of the plateau, forming a defensive line that utilized the natural terrain.
Aspects as a Coastal Castle
Although the area is now urbanized, it is believed that the sea extended much closer at the time of the castle’s construction. Utsutsu was known as a good port, and the Miyake clan relied on this port as one of their economic bases.
Sakiyama Castle can be understood not merely as a military base, but as a “coastal castle” that controlled a key point for maritime traffic and also possessed economic functions for managing logistics.
Current State of Sakiyama Castle Ruins
Current Status of Remains
Currently, the Sakiyama Castle ruins are entirely a residential area, and it is impossible to clearly identify any castle remains. The cliff face of the plateau is designated as a landslide-prone area and has been reinforced with concrete.
The central part of the castle ruins is around 4 Sakiyama, Noto-cho, Hōsu-gun, Ishikawa Prefecture, but the topography has been greatly altered by residential development, making it difficult to imagine its former appearance.
Cultural Property Designation
The Sakiyama Castle ruins are listed as a “castle” in the cultural property register, but there are no information boards or explanatory signs at the site. Because the remains have been lost, no development as a historical site has been carried out.
The “National Survey of Cultural Properties” records it as “Sengoku period – flatland castle, enclosure, 325m east-west x 150m north-south, elevation 29.8m, relative height 27.8m,” and it is preserved as an academic record.
Access to Sakiyama Castle
Location
Address: Sakiyama, Utsutsu, Noto-cho, Hōsu-gun, Ishikawa Prefecture
Transportation
Access by Car:
- Approximately 15 minutes from the Noto Airport IC on the Noto Satoyama Expressway (Nōetsu Expressway)
- Within walking distance from Utsutsu town center
Public Transportation:
- Approximately 10 minutes on foot from the Utsutsu bus stop (Hokutetsu Okunoto Bus) from Noto Airport
There is no designated parking area, but since it is located in a residential area, it is recommended to avoid street parking and use the public parking lots in Utsutsu town center.
Points to Note When Visiting
Since Sakiyama Castle Ruins are located in a residential area, please observe the following points when visiting:
- Please be considerate of the privacy of residents.
- Unauthorized entry onto private property is strictly prohibited.
- As no remains exist, the visit will require historical imagination.
- The cliff face is reinforced with concrete and is dangerous; do not approach it.
Related Historical Sites in the Surrounding Area
Nanao Castle Ruins
Nanao Castle, the main castle of the Noto Hatakeyama clan, is a nationally designated historical site. It was the site of the “Battle of Nanao Castle,” in which Miyake Nagamori betrayed the castle, and is an essential related historical site for understanding Sakiyama Castle.
Located in Nanao City, it is approximately a 40-minute drive from Sakiyama Castle. From the main keep, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Nanao Bay, and the magnificent stone walls and baileys are well-preserved.
Ishidōyama
Ishidōyama, where Miyake Nagamori met his end, is a sacred mountain spanning Nakanoto Town and Nanao City. In the past, numerous monasteries stood around Tenpyōji Temple, making it a major base for warrior monks.
Currently, the Ishidōyama Museum is located there, where you can learn about its history. It’s a place worth visiting to understand the end of Sakiyama Castle’s history, marked by Miyake Nagamori’s uprising and death in battle.
Tendō Castle Ruins
Tendō Castle, the residence of Miyake Nagamori’s father, Nukui Tsugumune, is located in Tensaka, Noto Town. While few remains exist, it’s an important historical site for understanding the relationship between the Miyake and Nukui clans.
History and Tourism of Noto Town
Port Town Culture of Ushitsu
Ushitsu, where Sakiyama Castle was located, still thrives as the center of Noto Town. Known as a good port since ancient times, it was a hub for fishing and shipping.
The Abare Festival, held every July, is one of Noto’s representative festivals, offering a spectacular sight of over 40 kiriko floats parading through the town. It’s an event where you can experience the culture of this port town, which has continued since the time of the Miyake clan.
Cultural Properties of Noto Town
Besides Sakiyama Castle, Noto Town has numerous other medieval castle ruins scattered throughout the area. Facilities for learning about history and culture are also abundant, including the Mawaki Ruins (Jomon period), Yanagida Botanical Garden, and the Noto Town Historical and Folk Museum.
The Miyake Clan and the Sengoku Period in Noto
The Political Structure of the Seven Lords
A characteristic of the Noto Hatakeyama clan was their council-style political management by a powerful group of vassals known as the Seven Lords. This was a unique power structure during the transitional period from shugo daimyo to sengoku daimyo, indicating a situation where the vassals held considerable power and the lord’s power was relatively weak.
As one of these seven retainers, Miyake held the characteristics of a semi-independent lord, not merely a vassal. Sakiyama Castle was a symbol of his power base and the center of his control over Noto Province.
Background of the Defection
The background to Miyake Nagamori and others’ defection to Uesugi Kenshin stemmed from the weakening of the Hatakeyama clan and power struggles within their retainer group. Some senior retainers, such as Yuza Tsugumitsu, had seized real power, deepening conflict with other retainers.
In the face of Uesugi Kenshin’s military pressure, they prioritized the preservation of their own power over loyalty to the Hatakeyama clan, resulting in the defection. However, their uprising after the Honnoji Incident also demonstrated their pride as former Hatakeyama retainers, illustrating the complex position of the Miyake clan.
Historical Significance of Sakiyama Castle
Typical of a Noto Local Lord
Sakiyama Castle is a typical example of a local lord’s residence in Noto Province during the Sengoku period. Rather than a large mountain castle, Sakiyama Castle was a flatland castle serving as a base for territorial management, with its location chosen with maritime traffic in mind.
Within the Miyake clan’s sphere of influence, encompassing the entire Inner Noto region, Sakiyama Castle functioned as the political, economic, and military center.
Its Place in Noto’s Sengoku History
Deeply involved in two crucial events—the defection during the Battle of Nanao Castle and the uprising after the Honnoji Incident—Sakiyama Castle is indispensable for understanding Noto’s Sengoku history.
In the grand historical currents of Uesugi Kenshin’s invasion of Noto, Oda Nobunaga’s pacification of Hokuriku, and Maeda Toshiie’s rule of Noto, the role played by the Miyake clan and Sakiyama Castle was significant.
Lessons for the Modern Age
Although the remains of Sakiyama Castle have been completely lost, its history remains in records. The current state of Sakiyama Castle prompts us to consider the importance of preserving regional historical heritage and the modern challenge of balancing development with cultural property protection.
Summary
Sakiyama Castle was a hilltop castle from the Sengoku period located in Ushitsu, Noto Town, Ishikawa Prefecture. It was the residence of the Miyake clan, important retainers of the Noto Hatakeyama clan. As the base of Miyake Sohhiro, one of the Seven Generals, and his adopted son, Miyake Nagamori, it played a central role in the control of the Noto region.
Despite its dramatic history, including defection to the Uesugi side during the Battle of Nanao Castle and its uprising and death at Ishidoyama after the Honnoji Incident, the area has now been completely transformed into a residential area, and the remains have been lost. However, its historical significance remains undiminished, and it should be remembered as an important historical site for understanding the Sengoku period in Noto.
When visiting Ushitsu, why not take a moment to reflect on the past as you gaze upon the plateau, now a residential area, and remember that this was once the residence of the Miyake clan, a place where Noto’s history unfolded? Visiting the nearby Nanao Castle and Ishidoyama together will allow you to experience Noto’s Sengoku history more deeply.
