Complete Guide to Nanao Castle | A Thorough Explanation of the History, Highlights, and Access to One of Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles
Nanao Castle, towering over Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture, is one of Japan’s 100 Famous Castles and a magnificent mountain fortress counted among Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles. The Hatakeyama clan, the shugo daimyo of Noto Province, resided there for approximately 170 years, and its imposing presence, even referred to as “Tengu” (Heavenly Palace), remains today in the form of stone walls and baileys scattered throughout the mountains. This article comprehensively explains everything you need to know before visiting Nanao Castle, from its history and highlights to access methods.
What is Nanao Castle? | Overview and Basic Information
Nanao Castle is a mountain castle site located in Kojōmachi, Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture, dating from the Muromachi to Sengoku periods. Built on the ridge of the Ishidō mountain range, centered around Mt. Matsuo (commonly known as “Shiroyama”), at an altitude of approximately 300 meters, it boasts an excellent location overlooking Nanao Bay.
Basic Data
- Location: Kojōmachi, Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture
- Year of Construction: Around the Shōchō era (1428-1429)
- Builder: Hatakeyama Mitsuyoshi
- Castle Structure: Concentric mountain castle
- Elevation: Approximately 300 meters
- Castle Area: Approximately 266 hectares
- Size: Approximately 2.5 kilometers north-south, approximately 1 kilometer east-west
- Designation: National Historic Site (designated in 1934), One of Japan’s Top 100 Castles (No. 34)
Origin of the Name of Nanao Castle
The place name “Nanao” is said to originate from the seven ridges on which the castle was built. These ridges were named Matsuo, Takeo, Umeo, Kikuo, Kameo, Torao, and Ryūo, and each had a bailey or fort. The castle is sometimes also known as “Matsuo Castle” or “Sueo Castle,” after the Matsuo area where the main keep was located.
History of Nanao Castle | 170 Years of Glory for the Noto Hatakeyama Clan
Construction and the Era of the Noto Hatakeyama Clan
The history of Nanao Castle dates back to the Shōchō era (1428-1429) of the Muromachi period. It is believed to have begun when Hatakeyama Mitsuyoshi, the first governor of Noto Province, built the castle on a ridge in the Ishidōyama mountain range, which separates Etchū and Noto.
Initially a small mountain castle, as the Hatakeyama clan expanded their power as the shugo daimyo (provincial governor) of Noto Province, the castle was also strengthened. In particular, significant expansion began in the early 16th century, developing into a large-scale castle that served as a center of politics and daily life.
Nanao Castle at its Peak
During the height of the Hatakeyama clan’s power, Nanao Castle boasted such splendor that it was called “Tengu” (Heavenly Palace). Centered around the main keep at the mountaintop, numerous stone-walled enclosures, fortifications, and residential areas were arranged along the seven ridges, creating a large-scale castle complex with an earthen rampart surrounding it.
A castle town stretched for over a ri (approximately 4 kilometers) at the foot of the mountain, flourishing as the political, economic, and cultural center of Noto Province. The foundation of the current Nanao city area can be said to lie in this castle town from that era.
The Battle of Nanao Castle | The Struggle Against Uesugi Kenshin
Nanao Castle first appeared on the historical stage during the Battle of Nanao Castle at the end of the Sengoku period. From around December 1576 (Tensho 4) to 1577 (Tensho 5), Uesugi Kenshin of Echigo invaded Noto and besieged Nanao Castle.
First Siege (1576)
After the death of his rival, Takeda Shingen, Uesugi Kenshin sought to expand his power into Noto Province. However, Nanao Castle, skillfully utilizing the rugged mountainous terrain, boasted impregnability, and Kenshin’s forces could not easily capture it.
Second Siege and Fall (1577)
In 1577 (Tensho 5), Uesugi Kenshin besieged Nanao Castle again. After a long siege, an epidemic spread within the castle, and further betrayal from within led to the final fall of Nanao Castle. It is said that at this time, Kenshin composed the famous Chinese poem “Composed on the Thirteenth Night of the September Month in the Camp,” which begins with the line, “Frost fills the camp, the autumn air is clear.”
Maeda Toshiie’s Entry into and Demolition of Nanao Castle
After the fall of Nanao Castle, it briefly came under the control of the Uesugi clan. However, following the turmoil after the Honnoji Incident (1582), in 1581, Maeda Toshiie was granted the entire province of Noto and entered Nanao Castle.
However, due to the inconvenience of the mountain castle, Toshiie built a new castle (Komaruyama Castle) at the foot of the mountain (present-day Nanao city) in 1589 and moved his residence there. This led to the abandonment of Nanao Castle, bringing its approximately 160-year history to an end.
Structure and Characteristics of Nanao Castle | The Power of One of Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles
What are Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles?
Nanao Castle is counted among Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles, along with the following castles.
- Kasugayama Castle (Niigata Prefecture) – Residence of Uesugi Kenshin
- Kannonji Castle (Shiga Prefecture) – Residence of the Rokkaku clan
- Odani Castle (Shiga Prefecture) – Residence of the Asai clan
- Gassan Tomita Castle (Shimane Prefecture) – Residence of the Amago clan
- Nanao Castle (Ishikawa Prefecture) – Residence of the Hatakeyama clan
These are all large-scale mountain castles representative of the Sengoku period, boasting advanced construction techniques and defensive capabilities.
Characteristics of the Castle Structure
Nanao Castle has a renkaku-shiki yamajo (continuous enclosure mountain castle) structure, with the main enclosures arranged continuously along the ridge.
Honmaru (Matsuo Enclosure)
Located at the highest point, approximately 300 meters above sea level, it is the central part of the castle. From the Honmaru, a spectacular view unfolds, encompassing Nanao Bay, Noto Island, and even the Tateyama mountain range. Currently, an observation deck has been installed, making it a popular tourist spot. #### Second and Third Baileys
These were the main baileys located below the main bailey, and are believed to have housed the residences of senior retainers and buildings for administrative affairs. The well-preserved stone walls demonstrate the advanced castle-building techniques of the time.
Seven Ridges and Branch Castles
The seven ridges—Matsuo, Takeo, Umeo, Kikuo, Kameo, Torao, and Ryuo—each had baileys and forts, creating a coordinated defensive structure. This allowed for flank attacks from other ridges even if the enemy attacked from one.
Stone Wall Techniques
The stone walls of Nanao Castle were built using a technique called nozurazumi (rough stone masonry). Nozurazumi, which involves stacking natural stones as they are, is a typical stone wall technique of the Sengoku period, and many sections remain in excellent condition today.
In particular, the stone walls around the main bailey exceed 5 meters in height in some sections, making them valuable remains that represent the pinnacle of stone wall technology at the time. Impressive stone walls can also be seen at Chōdomaru, the Yuza Residence Ruins, and the Nukui Residence Ruins.
Outer Enclosure and Defensive System
Nanao Castle had an “outer enclosure” that surrounded the entire castle area with earthworks and moats. This made it not just a mountain castle, but a comprehensive defensive base including the castle town. A tiered defensive line was established from the foot of the mountain to the summit, making it an extremely difficult fortress to conquer.
Highlights of Nanao Castle | Existing Remains and Spectacular Views
View from the Main Enclosure Observation Deck
The greatest highlight of Nanao Castle is the view from the observation deck located on the site of the main enclosure. From an altitude of approximately 300 meters, a 360-degree panorama unfolds, offering views of Nanao Bay, Noto Island, Wakura Onsen town, and even the Tateyama mountain range on clear days.
The view is particularly spectacular during sunrise and sunset, making it a popular spot for photography. Currently, a road is maintained almost to the summit, and it is accessible in about 5 minutes on foot from the parking lot.
Stone Walls
The stone walls remaining throughout the castle grounds are the most important remains of Nanao Castle.
Main Enclosure Stone Walls
The stone walls around the main enclosure are the best preserved, with some sections exceeding 5 meters in height. They are textbook examples of the nozurazumi (rough-stone masonry) technique.
Chōdomaru Stone Walls
Located east of the main enclosure, the Chōdomaru retains magnificent stone walls. This enclosure is believed to have been a place for storing weapons and furnishings.
Yuza Residence Ruins and Nukui Residence Ruins
Impressive stone walls remain at the sites of the residences of senior retainers, providing insight into the social hierarchy and the scale of the residences at the time.
Sakurababa and Enclosures
Sakurababa is a large, flat area located north of the main enclosure, believed to be a place where horse training and ceremonies took place. In spring, cherry blossoms bloom, making it a popular spot for cherry blossom viewing.
In addition, numerous baileys (enclosures) remain within the castle grounds, allowing visitors to experience the scale of the castle in its heyday while walking along the hiking trails.
Hiking Trails
Several hiking trails are maintained at the Nanao Castle ruins.
Main Bailey Trail
The shortest course, approximately 5 minutes from the parking lot to the main bailey. Recommended for beginners and those with limited time.
Loop Trail
A course of approximately 1 hour, starting from the main bailey and visiting Chōdomaru, Sakurababa, and the Yuza Residence Ruins. Allows for efficient viewing of the main remains.
Foothills Trail
A course that ascends from the Nanao Castle Historical Museum to the main bailey via a mountain trail. Takes approximately 40 minutes to 1 hour. Allows for a deeper understanding of the castle’s defensive structure by experiencing a portion of the original ascent route.
Note: Due to the effects of the Noto Peninsula Earthquake in January 2024, some trails and facilities may be closed. Please check the official information from Nanao City before visiting.
Nanao Castle Historical Museum | A Hub for Learning History
When visiting Nanao Castle, we also recommend visiting the Nanao Castle Historical Museum located at the foot of the mountain.
Exhibition Contents
- Materials related to the history of Nanao Castle and the Hatakeyama clan
- Artifacts unearthed during archaeological excavations (ceramics, weapons, etc.)
- Reconstruction model of Nanao Castle
- Exhibits related to the Battle of Nanao Castle between Uesugi Kenshin
- Materials related to Maeda Toshiie and the rule of Noto
Basic Information
- Location: 8-1, Furuyashiki-machi, Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture (located next to the Kaikokan Museum)
- Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00 (Last entry at 16:30)
- Closed: Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a public holiday), New Year holidays
- Admission Fee: 200 yen for adults, free for junior high school students and younger
- Parking: Available (free)
Visiting the castle ruins after gaining background knowledge at the museum will change your perspective on the remains and lead to a deeper understanding.
Access and Parking Information
Access by Car
To the Honmaru Parking Lot
- From the Noto Satoyama Expressway “Tazuruhama IC”: Approximately 20 minutes
- From Nanao City Center: Approximately 15 minutes
- From Wakura Onsen: Approximately 20 minutes
A paved road leads to the parking lot near the Honmaru (main keep), and regular cars can drive up. However, caution is required when driving as there are narrow sections and sharp curves.
Parking Information
- Honmaru Parking: Approximately 30 spaces (Free)
- Nanao Castle Historical Museum Parking: Approximately 20 spaces (Free)
Access by Public Transportation
Train
- Get off at JR Nanao Line “Nanao Station”: Approximately 15 minutes by taxi, or by local bus.
Bus
Buses from Nanao Station to the Nanao Castle Historical Museum are limited, so it is recommended to check the timetable in advance. From the museum to Honmaru is approximately a 40-minute to 1-hour hike.
Taxi Use
If using a taxi from Nanao Station to the Honmaru parking lot, the one-way fare is approximately 3,000 yen. Negotiating a round-trip fare plus waiting time is also an option.
Points to Note and Recommended Time of Visit
Clothing and Equipment
- Shoes: Comfortable sneakers or hiking boots are recommended. Due to the stone steps and mountain paths, heels and sandals are unsuitable.
- Clothing: The temperature at the summit is lower than in the city, so bring a jacket appropriate for the season.
- What to Bring: Drinking water, towel, insect repellent (summer), rain gear
Recommended Time to Visit
Spring (April-May)
It’s cherry blossom season, and you can enjoy cherry blossom viewing at places like Sakurababa. The weather is mild, making it ideal for a stroll.
Autumn (October-November)
The autumn foliage is beautiful, and the clear air provides excellent views. This is also the time when Uesugi Kenshin attacked, so you can feel the romance of history.
Summer (June-August)
The lush greenery and cool mountain castle make it suitable for escaping the summer heat, but insect repellent is necessary.
Winter (December-March)
If there is snow, climbing to the castle may be difficult. Check road conditions before visiting.
Post-Earthquake Situation
Due to the Noto Peninsula Earthquake on January 1, 2024, some facilities and access routes to Nanao Castle ruins have been damaged. Please be sure to check the following before visiting:
- Nanao City Official Website
- Nanao Castle Historical Museum Opening Status
- Accessible Route Information
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Wakura Onsen
A representative hot spring resort in Noto, located about 20 minutes by car from Nanao Castle. Enjoy seafood cuisine and hot springs in this hot spring town facing Nanao Bay.
Notojima Island
Notojima Island, visible from the main keep of Nanao Castle, has tourist facilities such as an aquarium (Notojima Aquarium) and a glass art museum. It is accessible from Nanao city center via the Notojima Bridge.
Komaruyama Castle Ruins
The ruins of the castle to which Maeda Toshiie moved from Nanao Castle, now developed as a park. Located in the heart of Nanao city center, it is suitable for strolling.
Ipponsugi Street
This street retains the old townscape of Nanao, lined with traditional merchant houses such as soy sauce breweries and Japanese candle shops.
Culture and Legends Related to Nanao Castle
Uesugi Kenshin’s Chinese Poetry
The Chinese poem “Composed on the Thirteenth Night of September in the Camp,” attributed to Uesugi Kenshin during the siege of Nanao Castle, is famous.
“Frost fills the camp, the autumn air is clear.”
This poem is known to demonstrate Kenshin’s high level of cultural refinement.
Hatakeyama Culture
The Hatakeyama clan were not only military power but also patrons of culture. Cultures such as Noh theater, tea ceremony, and linked verse flourished in Nanao, forming a cultural city sometimes called “Little Kyoto.”
Nanao Castle and Local Festivals
Every year, historical events and festivals related to Nanao Castle are held (the schedule varies from year to year).
Stamp of Japan’s Top 100 Castles
Nanao Castle is selected as the 34th of Japan’s Top 100 Castles, and many people participating in the stamp rally visit it.
Stamp Locations
- Nanao Castle Historical Museum: During opening hours
- Near the information board in the main keep parking lot: Stamps can be obtained even on days when the museum is closed (outdoor location)
Those collecting stamps for Japan’s Top 100 Castles should remember to bring their stamp book.
Summary | Experience the Charm of Nanao Castle
Nanao Castle, one of Japan’s Five Great Mountain Castles, is a valuable historical site that conveys the essence of mountain castle architecture from the Sengoku period. It holds many stories as the stage for the 170-year glory of the Noto Hatakeyama clan, fierce battles with Uesugi Kenshin, and the subsequent era of Maeda Toshiie.
From the main keep at an altitude of 300 meters, you can enjoy breathtaking views of Nanao Bay and Noto Island. The well-preserved stone walls and the scattered baileys and residence ruins throughout the vast castle grounds offer endless sights to see. Learning about its history at the Nanao Castle Historical Museum at the foot of the mountain and actually walking through the castle ruins to examine the remains will provide a living historical experience that you can’t get from textbooks.
When visiting the Noto Peninsula, be sure to visit Nanao Castle and experience the pinnacle of Japanese mountain castle culture. However, please note that some facilities may be unavailable due to the effects of the 2024 Noto Peninsula Earthquake, so be sure to check the latest information before your visit.
The charm of Nanao Castle, woven from Noto’s history and nature, cannot be fully described in a single visit. It’s a castle ruin full of charm that will make you want to visit again and again in different seasons.
